Keytop routing techniques

[Greg Newell]

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And further more ... how do you route the long edge if it is riddled
with recessed weights. Nothing for the router bit bearing to ride on you
know. Thanks for the topic Tom.

Greg

Tom Servinsky wrote:

> List,Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some input.
> I just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland
> machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching
> machine.The question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best
> way to route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit
> with guide and some use a sanding disc.What's the consensus out
> there?Also what is the keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to
> using acetone and a melted plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity
> consistently.  Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is
> you have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere
> near the surface of the key or the finish will be marred.So bring it
> on.  Would be interested in your comments on learning the tricks of
> the trade.Tom Servinsky,RPT
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From: Jon Page
>      To: pianotech@ptg.org
>      Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM
>      Subject: Re: Planer and keytops
>       At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote:
>
>     > For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears
>     > rotary planer in a
>     > radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide
>     > cutters, while
>     > the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand
>     > sideways forces
>     > much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean
>     > 200...). Most
>     > RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered.
>     >
>     > Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs,
>     > anticipating tear out I
>     > grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more.
>     > Increasing clearance
>     > by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to
>     > help. Feed slow,
>     > should work fine.
>     >
>     > Adjustable parallels for set up.
>     >
>     > > electric planer
>     >
>     > Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as
>     > such, there's so
>     > little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard
>     > sounds to
>     > invite disaster.
>     > Clark
>
>
>      What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the
>      kerf it leaves at the end of the plastic.
>      A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only
>      enough material for the new keytop
>      to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job.
>
>      Regards,
>
>
>      Jon Page,   piano technician
>      Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
>      mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net
>      http://www.stanwoodpiano.com
>      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
--
Greg Newell
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net


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