Keytop routing techniques

[Tom Servinsky]

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Greg,
That was one of reasons for the inquiry. The laminate router bit will =
follow the key nicely. However, as you have pointed out, when key lead =
weights cause irregularities in the key itself, that will transfer to =
your beautiful new keytop.
Tom Servinsky,RPT
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Greg Newell=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 11:17 AM
  Subject: Re: Keytop routing techniques


  And further more ... how do you route the long edge if it is riddled =
with recessed weights. Nothing for the router bit bearing to ride on you =
know. Thanks for the topic Tom.=20
  Greg=20

  Tom Servinsky wrote:=20

    List,Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate some =
input. I just started doing my own keytops with the aid of an Olsland =
machine.  I acquired the planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.The =
question I have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to route =
down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router bit with guide and =
some use a sanding disc.What's the consensus out there?Also what is the =
keytop cement of choice.  I was introduced to using acetone and a melted =
plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity consistently.  Within 30 =
seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is you have to be extremely =
careful not to transfer any acetone anywhere near the surface of the key =
or the finish will be marred.So bring it on.  Would be interested in =
your comments on learning the tricks of the trade.Tom Servinsky,RPT=20
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Jon Page
      To: pianotech@ptg.org
      Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM
      Subject: Re: Planer and keytops
       At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote:=20
        For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or Sears rotary =
planer in a=20
        radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has carbide cutters, =
while=20
        the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can stand sideways =
forces=20
        much better than most drill presses (and 400m doesn't mean =
200...). Most=20
        RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've encountered.=20
        Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs, anticipating tear =
out I=20
        grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes more. Increasing =
clearance=20
        by tilting the drill table very slightly also seems to help. =
Feed slow,=20
        should work fine.=20

        Adjustable parallels for set up.=20

        > electric planer=20

        Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would work as such, =
there's so=20
        little surface, and planing cross grain along the keyboard =
sounds to=20
        invite disaster.=20
        Clark


      What I don't like about using circular saw blades is the kerf it =
leaves at the end of the plastic.=20
      A router bit or rotary planer can be set to remove only enough =
material for the new keytop=20
      to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much neater job.=20

      Regards,=20
       =20

      Jon Page,   piano technician=20
      Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.=20
      mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net=20
      http://www.stanwoodpiano.com=20
      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

  --=20
  Greg Newell=20
  mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net=20
   =20


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