Keytop routing techniques

[Greg Newell]

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Go ahead, ask me how I found out. Better yet don't Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

Greg

Tom Servinsky wrote:

>  Greg,That was one of reasons for the inquiry. The laminate router bit
> will follow the key nicely. However, as you have pointed out, when key
> lead weights cause irregularities in the key itself, that will
> transfer to your beautiful new keytop.Tom Servinsky,RPT
>
>      ----- Original Message -----
>      From: Greg Newell
>      To: pianotech@ptg.org
>      Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2001 11:17 AM
>      Subject: Re: Keytop routing techniques
>       And further more ... how do you route the long edge if it
>      is riddled with recessed weights. Nothing for the router bit
>      bearing to ride on you know. Thanks for the topic Tom.
>
>      Greg
>
>      Tom Servinsky wrote:
>
>     > List,Since the thread has been keytops, I would appreciate
>     > some input. I just started doing my own keytops with the
>     > aid of an Olsland machine.  I acquired the
>     > planer/resurfacer and the notching machine.The question I
>     > have is seems to be finding the safest and best way to
>     > route down the the long edges. Some use a laminate router
>     > bit with guide and some use a sanding disc.What's the
>     > consensus out there?Also what is the keytop cement of
>     > choice.  I was introduced to using acetone and a melted
>     > plastic keytop made into a honey viscosity consistently.
>     > Within 30 seconds the bond is strong.  The downside is you
>     > have to be extremely careful not to transfer any acetone
>     > anywhere near the surface of the key or the finish will be
>     > marred.So bring it on.  Would be interested in your
>     > comments on learning the tricks of the trade.Tom
>     > Servinsky,RPT
>     >
>     >      ----- Original Message -----
>     >      From: Jon Page
>     >      To: pianotech@ptg.org
>     >      Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 10:20 PM
>     >      Subject: Re: Planer and keytops
>     >       At 11:17 AM 10/13/2001 -0200, you wrote:
>     >
>     >      > For most thicknessing I use a big table saw, or
>     >      > Sears rotary planer in a
>     >      > radial arm saw. The Sears tool is crude but has
>     >      > carbide cutters, while
>     >      > the radial saw is faster, more powerful and can
>     >      > stand sideways forces
>     >      > much better than most drill presses (and 400m
>     >      > doesn't mean 200...). Most
>     >      > RAS can be adjusted more precisely than I've
>     >      > encountered.
>     >      >
>     >      > Wagner cutters can be shaped specific to jobs,
>     >      > anticipating tear out I
>     >      > grind an angle so that the low edge protrudes
>     >      > more. Increasing clearance
>     >      > by tilting the drill table very slightly also
>     >      > seems to help. Feed slow,
>     >      > should work fine.
>     >      >
>     >      > Adjustable parallels for set up.
>     >      >
>     >      > > electric planer
>     >      >
>     >      > Do you mean a hand held? I don't think it would
>     >      > work as such, there's so
>     >      > little surface, and planing cross grain along
>     >      > the keyboard sounds to
>     >      > invite disaster.
>     >      > Clark
>     >
>     >
>     >      What I don't like about using circular saw
>     >      blades is the kerf it leaves at the end of the
>     >      plastic.
>     >      A router bit or rotary planer can be set to
>     >      remove only enough material for the new keytop
>     >      to be installed with an inlay appearance. A much
>     >      neater job.
>     >
>     >      Regards,
>     >
>     >
>     >      Jon Page,   piano technician
>     >      Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
>     >      mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net
>     >      http://www.stanwoodpiano.com
>     >      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>     >
>      --
>      Greg Newell
>      mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
>
>
--
Greg Newell
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net


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