Baldwin SD-10

Charles E Faulk cfaulk2@juno.com
Thu, 6 Sep 2001 08:42:52 -0500


Phil,

As best as I can remember, this is true.

Charles Faulk

On Thu, 06 Sep 2001 03:05:28  0000 "Phillip L Ford" <fordpiano@lycos.com>
writes:
> Charles,
> Thanks for the info.  If I understand you correctly then the pockets 
> or
> notches in the inner rim are just to provide clearance for the ribs 
> and
> that the ribs are not actually attached to the inner rim.  Do I have 
> that
> right?  Interesting.
> 
> Phil
> 
> ---
> Phillip Ford
> Piano Service & Restoration
> 1777 Yosemite Ave
> San Francisco, CA  94124
> 
> On Wed, 5 Sep 2001 21:21:17   
>  Charles E Faulk wrote:
> >Phil,
> >
> >The Baldwin SD-10 is a good quality piano. However it bears many of
> >Harold Conklin's design quirks.
> >
> >Capping the bridge may not prove harmful to the piano, but it would 
> be
> >just a good to repair the cracks with epoxy and move on.
> >
> >The soundboard was designed to leave it approximately 5/8" short of 
> the
> >outer rim all along the perimeter. The rationale, if I remember
> >correctly, was to give the sound board room for expansion or 
> contraction
> >depending on the season. There is no 'channel' per se; just a gap 
> between
> >the soundboard and the outer rim.
> >
> >The bridge pins are supposed to be 17 degrees off of perpendicular.
> >Considering that these are drilled by hand, there is plenty of room 
> for
> >mistakes.
> >
> >The notches are routed into the inner rim using  a 1 1/14" rounded
> >cutting bit with an unusually long shank. The ribs are supposed to 
> have a
> >little clearance from the top of the inner rim. They are designed 
> to
> >'float' to the edge of the soundboard without contact with the rim.
> >
> >My memory of such things is about 14 years old, but that's about 
> the best
> >I can describe it.
> >
> >Regards,
> >
> >Charles Faulk RPT
> >
> >On Thu, 06 Sep 2001 00:30:14  0000 "Phillip L Ford" 
> <fordpiano@lycos.com>
> >writes:
> >>      I am currently rebuilding a 1982 SD-10.  I have never 
> rebuilt 
> >> one before
> >> and have tuned or serviced only a few.  This one has fairly bad 
> >> bridge
> >> cracks in the top section of the long bridge and in the unichord 
> >> section
> >> of the bass bridge.  One of the other pianos that I've serviced 
> also 
> >> had
> >> this problem although not as severe.  Is this typical of these 
> >> pianos?
> >> Although the bridge is vertically laminated with no cap I'm 
> planning 
> >> to
> >> put on a cap to deal with the cracking problem?  Does anyone have 
> 
> >> any
> >> comments about putting a cap on a bridge like this?
> >>      A few other observations:
> >>   The angle of the bridge pins coming out of the bridges seems 
> quite 
> >> severe
> >> to me and is I assume part of the reason for the bridge cracking.
> >>   The soundboard does not come all the way to the outer rim.  
> There 
> >> is a
> >> groove or channel between the soundboard and the outer rim that 
> goes
> >> down to the inner rim.  It appears to have been cut after the 
> >> soundboard
> >> was installed.  Does anyone know the reason for this?
> >>   Looking down into the groove one can see the ends of the relief 
> 
> >> cuts
> >> where the ribs are let in to the inner rim.  The ends of these 
> cuts 
> >> are
> >> rounded as if they were cut with a router or mill.  The ends of 
> the 
> >> ribs
> >> are squared and do not come all the way to the end of the relief 
> >> cuts.
> >> I had always assumed that good quality pianos were built with the 
> 
> >> ribs
> >> closely fitted to their relief pockets and soundboards always 
> ending 
> >> at
> >> the outer rim, but apparently this is not always the case.
> >> 
> >> Phil
> >> 
> >> ---
> >> Phillip Ford
> >> Piano Service & Restoration
> >> 1777 Yosemite Ave
> >> San Francisco, CA  94124
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Get 250 color business cards for FREE!
> >> http://businesscards.lycos.com/vp/fastpath/
> >
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> 
> 
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