Damper Lever Rebuild (tad long)

[Farrell]

Thank you very much for the info Roger. I'll get to work right
away......tomorrow! To address Wim's comment to replace flanges with
spring - the flanges I have found have an off-centered rail screw hole - I
need hole in middle of flange - besides, I kinda want to do this so that I
have done the whole thing for experience. Regarding the damper lift rod
bushing holder thingees - one of them is broke in half. I don't think there
is any easy way to fix it. I believe I need to replace it.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message -----
From: "jolly roger" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 8:36 PM
Subject: Re: Damper Lever Rebuild (tad long)


>
> OK Terry,
>                I'll bite.  <G>  Can't you ever ask simple questions?
>
> >
> >1) Damper spring flange cord. What is the best way to remove it? I tried
> >pushing it through - just jammed up in the spring area and......(flange
is
> >now in vice with tite-bond). Is there a handy way to pull it through? Or
> >should it be cut with a razor at the spring and then pushed? I did take
the
> >steel center pin out first (I assume that is the way to start at least).
>
> Two slices with a razor and the spring falls out, then just use a pointed
> object and push out the stuff in the hole.  Simple, done.
> >
> >2) The cord in the one flange I have removed appears to not have been
glued
> >in place - is this OK to reproduce when installing the new cord?
>
> Ain't meant to be glued.   Put glue on the cord and listen to the spring
> click like mad.  Create you own special percussion section.
> The spring will not go any where if you have a snog fit with the cord.
> Just make sure you have the wover jacket type cord.
> >
> >3) Should the new cord simply be pulled through and cut to length? If it
is
> >not glued in, is it not going to crunch up inside when I try to install
> >center pin? Is there some procedural trick to getting new cord and pin
in?
> >Or should I glue it in regardless of whether it was originally glued in
or
> >not?
>
> Now just push the woven sleeve of the cord back, to expose about 2" of
> core,  snip the core.  Now stretch the sleeve out over the core. twirl the
> end and apply CA glue on the first inch.  This will give you a nice stiff
> needle like end to thread through the holes and spring coil.   Pull
through
> and trim the ends with a sharp razor.   Done.   You don't need a centre
pin
> on most damper levers.
> >
> >4) There is a creased little round piece of felt/cloth at the lever top
> >where the top of the spring rubs against the lever. Some levers do not
have
> >cloth, instead they have a direct wire-to-graphited wood contact. Do I
need
> >the felt/cloth? Can I just remove it and put some dag on the groove in
> >lever? If it is best to replace felt/cloth, what should it be replaced
with?
> >I do not find any such identified thing in the catalogs.
>
> The supply houses sell those punchings.  But you have to get rid of the
> graphite first as the glue will not stick. The felt will give quieter
> trouble free operation.  But dag will aso work, remember to burnish it in,
> or it will squeek.
> >
> >5) What kind of felt/cloth is used at the bottom of the lever where the
> >damper lift rod and damper spoons push against the damper lever?
>
> Action cloth or wippen cloth, it is sold in about 5 thicknesses.  So make
> sure you have the right material or you can end up with major timing
> problems. Dusting with teflon powder is a good idea.  When gluing the new
> action cloth, a little dab at each end.  No glue under the rod contact
> point.  Quieter operation.
>
> >
> >6) What kind of bushing felt/cloth should be used in the damper lift rod
> >bushing holder thingees? Is there any source for older style bushing
holder
> >thingees? I know they have the newer ones in the catalogs, but I will
have
> >to chisel/rout a new spot for these if I need to convert. My original
ones
> >have a round base and appear to be made of copper or brass.
>
> These are the best type so keep them, rebush with key bushing cloth.  Melt
> parafine wax into the bushing, it will never squeek again.
> I do not glue the bushings in.   I just leave a collar and push it on to
> the damper rod hanger, after the melted wax has been applied, this will
> size the bushing for you. Remove and trim off excess with a very sharp
> razor.  A little trick, push part way on to the hanger, trim end, the
> reverse the bushing and trim the other end.  That way the bushing will not
> want to pull out.
> It's a good idea to lay the rod on a flat surface to may sure all the
> hangers are in a straight line.  Can save a lot of grief later when you
> find one end lifting earlier than the other.
>
> >
> >I know cloth is woven. How does felt differ? How to tell the difference
when
> >examining old cloth/felt?
>
> I have a preference for the woven felt with a whitish weave.
>
> With regards to your customer, warn her that you may be replacing the
> damper felt when you restring.
>
> Hope you this useful.
> Roger
>
>