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I usually apply the epoxy while I am installing the new pins. After =
pulling pins and renotching the bridge, I mix up a small amount of epoxy =
in a cup. Using piece of piano wire, I swab the holes with the epoxy, =
dip the end of the pin in and insert it into the hole. The epoxy oozes =
around so periodically I take an acid brush, dip it lightly into lacquer =
thinner and brush the overflow down into the notches and across the =
bridge top. I stop using the mixed batch well before it starts to gel =
or harden (20 - 25 minutes depending on temperature). Then I take a dry =
tooth brush and brush over the area already covered to insure that there =
is no excess laying around. Mix a new batch and go on. I haven't tried =
putting a coat of epoxy on the bridge and then reaming for new pins =
after it hardens. I would think that it would be hard to control =
whether or not you were uncentering the hole off the ridge of the notch. =
=20
David Love
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Erwinspiano@aol.com=20
To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
Sent: December 15, 2002 8:58 PM
Subject: Epoxy Repair to bridge top
List
I know we've discussed epoxy bridge repair and Since I'm =
currently in the middle of the first I've done of this in a while I'm =
hoping you all will interject your own protocols so I can get it right =
if I mis-step on this one a bit.
The situation thus far is I've replaced the top two treble bridge =
caps with new tight maple ones A Mason AA .Yes I found some in an old =
upright pinblock. The lower portions arte in relatively good shape. A =
few hairline cracks and a little bridge pin wiggle at the top but no =
seroius degredadtion.=20
I wanted to install new pins to get rid of the grooves at the =
that pin terminus and also tighten up the pin fit in the cap. In case =
it's escaped any of you as it has me the bridge pins no. 6, 7, & are =
not really the size stated in the catalogue but tend to run 1 thou. =
smaller. A size 6 supposed to be .076 is really .075 and so on. Really =
quite annoying when trying to just snug up the pin fit in the wood if =
you know what I mean.
Any way now I know I'm going to need to have enough epoxy in the =
holes to ream and fit more so than if the pins were correct size.
Using the west systems epoxy and slow hardener ( thanks Terry and =
Keith R) I poured a small bit in a plastic squeeze bottle and inserted =
the needle into the holes working it around with the needle as I went =
and topping off each hole with a final drop. Previous to this I had =
renotched, planned down the cap to remove all the string marks and dag. =
Underneath is a beautiful ,tightly 1/4 sawn cap.=20
I decided to finish the cap in a natural epoxy finnish which I've =
not done before.
So while the epoxy was setting up in the holes I brushed on the =
rest of the epoxy into the notches and bridge top. No Problems yet.
Today I found the appearance to be too glossy for my liking so I =
knocked off the nibs and dust with 800 grit paper then used 4 /0 steel =
wool to satinize it then repolished it with a paper towel. It looks =
fabuolous. The notches I just steel wooled.Considering the epoxy must =
be harder than the wood should lend to itself to better energy =
transmission, increased longevity and beauty.
Next will come fittin the pins which I'd appreciate any feed back =
on the results of this for you.
I was planning to ream the holes with the apropriate size bit and =
drive in a new pin. The reason I've avoided this process in the past has =
been because of the untidy out come of sticky epoxy ever where a s I'm =
pushing bridge pins into it and having it come gushing out everywhere =
and trying to clean it up.
Dale Erwin=20
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