This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment I usually apply the epoxy while I am installing the new pins. After = pulling pins and renotching the bridge, I mix up a small amount of epoxy = in a cup. Using piece of piano wire, I swab the holes with the epoxy, = dip the end of the pin in and insert it into the hole. The epoxy oozes = around so periodically I take an acid brush, dip it lightly into lacquer = thinner and brush the overflow down into the notches and across the = bridge top. I stop using the mixed batch well before it starts to gel = or harden (20 - 25 minutes depending on temperature). Then I take a dry = tooth brush and brush over the area already covered to insure that there = is no excess laying around. Mix a new batch and go on. I haven't tried = putting a coat of epoxy on the bridge and then reaming for new pins = after it hardens. I would think that it would be hard to control = whether or not you were uncentering the hole off the ridge of the notch. = =20 David Love ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Erwinspiano@aol.com=20 To: pianotech@ptg.org=20 Sent: December 15, 2002 8:58 PM Subject: Epoxy Repair to bridge top List I know we've discussed epoxy bridge repair and Since I'm = currently in the middle of the first I've done of this in a while I'm = hoping you all will interject your own protocols so I can get it right = if I mis-step on this one a bit. The situation thus far is I've replaced the top two treble bridge = caps with new tight maple ones A Mason AA .Yes I found some in an old = upright pinblock. The lower portions arte in relatively good shape. A = few hairline cracks and a little bridge pin wiggle at the top but no = seroius degredadtion.=20 I wanted to install new pins to get rid of the grooves at the = that pin terminus and also tighten up the pin fit in the cap. In case = it's escaped any of you as it has me the bridge pins no. 6, 7, & are = not really the size stated in the catalogue but tend to run 1 thou. = smaller. A size 6 supposed to be .076 is really .075 and so on. Really = quite annoying when trying to just snug up the pin fit in the wood if = you know what I mean. Any way now I know I'm going to need to have enough epoxy in the = holes to ream and fit more so than if the pins were correct size. Using the west systems epoxy and slow hardener ( thanks Terry and = Keith R) I poured a small bit in a plastic squeeze bottle and inserted = the needle into the holes working it around with the needle as I went = and topping off each hole with a final drop. Previous to this I had = renotched, planned down the cap to remove all the string marks and dag. = Underneath is a beautiful ,tightly 1/4 sawn cap.=20 I decided to finish the cap in a natural epoxy finnish which I've = not done before. So while the epoxy was setting up in the holes I brushed on the = rest of the epoxy into the notches and bridge top. No Problems yet. Today I found the appearance to be too glossy for my liking so I = knocked off the nibs and dust with 800 grit paper then used 4 /0 steel = wool to satinize it then repolished it with a paper towel. It looks = fabuolous. The notches I just steel wooled.Considering the epoxy must = be harder than the wood should lend to itself to better energy = transmission, increased longevity and beauty. Next will come fittin the pins which I'd appreciate any feed back = on the results of this for you. I was planning to ream the holes with the apropriate size bit and = drive in a new pin. The reason I've avoided this process in the past has = been because of the untidy out come of sticky epoxy ever where a s I'm = pushing bridge pins into it and having it come gushing out everywhere = and trying to clean it up. Dale Erwin=20 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/79/4c/7f/e4/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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