---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment In a message dated 12/23/2002 2:15:13 PM Pacific Standard Time, sbellieu@mindspring.com writes: > Subj: Re: Bridgetop Extravaganza Revisited > Date: 12/23/2002 2:15:13 PM Pacific Standard Time > From: <A HREF="mailto:sbellieu@mindspring.com">sbellieu@mindspring.com</A> > Reply-to: <A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > To: <A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > Sent from the Internet > > > .Thanks Terry. I told the client to sit down and > he took it like a man. Also Dale how far did you have to plane down your > piano with the same problem? Did you have to do anything special to reset > the bearing in the treble or did it get a new block? I'm going for the > "Deepest String Cuts" title for 2002 and there are only a few days left. > > Happy Holidays, Steve Bellieu Hi Steve Frustratin ain't it? Yes it got a new bolck but I didn't need to change the elevation. I planed Just to the bottom of the string grooves and no more. If you go beyond this your side bearing will change dramatically. Also you could lower the plate a bit through out or as needed. The trouble is with so many factors involved it almost impossible to give accurate expert advice over the internet. Beside I don't know any experts! Concerning my question as to HOW you were determing downbearing . I meant what method. I was trying to verfy your technique just in case an error was being made and giving you false reading. Regards An Blessed Cristmas Dale Erwin > > Dale Erwin wrote: > Could you share how it is you're measuring 1.5 degrees of bearing on the > bass and with what. If the rear string length was 8 inches( possible on a > D) > 8 Times .026=.208 or (1.5 degrees) of distance bearing . Considering this > bass bridge has no cantilever I don't mind seeing this at the top end of > the bridge but I'd like to see .05 degrres in the mono > section........................ > > Dale, All measurements referred to so far were from the strung piano. > Individual strings were removed and thread/gap measurements were taken. I > was conservative in the bass and subtracted for the twisted part of the > string riding on the hump. Note # 3 showed 1.3 deg, note # 10 showed 1.7 > deg, and note # 19 showed 1.3 deg. Inverse tangent of (gap/rear length). > Did you mean to write .5 deg in stead of .05 ? Just for giggles I checked > one of the previously measured tenor bridge strings in the middle of the > overstrung section after the bass strings were off. (The following day) > It > came up from .06 deg to .5 deg. > > > Greg Newell wrote: > I re-read your original post below and I still come to the same conclusion. > It sounds as though you're somewhat accomplished in rebuilding so I'm not > sure I understand your hesitation in recapping. If the original pins are > loose and you don't intend to replace with oversize but you are going > through the trouble of pulling the plate and then subsequent re-stringing > then .... why not? .............................. > > If I could do something with epoxy in a few hours and save all that > expense. > It will get new pins. I am not an accomplished rebuilder or expert > woodworker. I have done dozens of restringings and several board shimming > internal restorations with doweled in new blocks. I haven't done any in > shop belly work for almost a year. Am doing mostly actions now. At one > time I was hot to try bridge capping but I don't think this is the right > time for me. The piano will go to another shop if that is the decision. > It > has been a lot of dues paid to get to where I am right now. It has kind of > been a relief that the constant acquisition of tools has slowed and I have > been busy doing things I am good at. I'm reluctant to take on the big > learning curve again. It is tempting though. I am handy with chisels and > planes and japanese saws and reach for them first before power tools. I > used to cut down key # 88 with a bandsaw, now I pare it with a chisel just > for the pleasure of it. > > Ron Nossaman wrote: > But it's not being condemned, it's being restrung even though it sounded ok > before? Is the damaged cap the reason for the restringing? And if so, why > the reluctance to replace it? If not, why is it being restrung? > > The piano is long overdue for restringing. It has never been restrung. It > is starting to shed treble strings. Capo needs to be reshaped. No one > noticed the cap. It does not sound good in the treble. I thought I was > catching a whiff of that old " If it doesn't have X amount of crown it > isn't > worth working on". That was why I said I was not going to condemn the > piano. I was trying to find out if any one had done the kind of bridge top > resurfacing that I am imagining. I have an obligation to try to repair > economically before replacement. > > >I'm anticipating tight new bridge pins are going to contribute to tonal > >improvement up higher. > > Why, considering the condition of the cap and resulting bearing > measurements? > > The pins come out easily. I thought the bearing was ok in that part of the > piano. (I'm not an expert, I'm soliciting an opinion from you rebuilder > types) > > > Everybody, > One thing I have learned already is to inspect every piano in the field > if possible. I hate these kind of surprises. Forgive my lack of protocol > knowledge on this kind of message board if I'm creating strange posts. I > guess we have to be careful not to take each other out of context with all > this cutting and pasting. > I attempted to quantify the condition of the grooves now that the > strings are off. Either it doesn't look as bad as I thought or I'm getting > used to it. Maybe they are swelling up a bit. Humidity is up. I held a > straight edge on the edge of the bridge and slid a needle under until it > stopped. It measured between .025" and .030" in tenor and low capo. High > capo was .020" to .025". Actually that is about as bad as I imagined, the > strings were about 2/3 into the top. I have no idea what "normal" wear is > because I have never thought about this before. Mitigating factor : the > wood at the edge that the ruler was on is a little bit puffy. > Is this too far to sand/plane down? Could the duplexes be ground down > a bit if so? This might be my last gasp here. Does anyone know of anyone > who has attempted to resurface a top? I guess this is mostly for my own > interest since I would only do it if it were a known procedure that worked. > Like epoxying pins is now a known procedure. I seem to remember it used to > be controversial. > I just had another thought that might not offend those who thought any > buildup of epoxy in the groove would fail. What about swelling the top a > little, then planing, then renotching, then pins in w/ epoxy and > saturating notches and top. Any amount the grooves swelled up would then > be > saturated and not built up. (Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique anyone?) > > Cheers, Steve Bellieu > ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/d2/41/49/98/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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