loose pedal lyres

[Keith Roberts]

Hi Joe, hope you had a good ride home.
 Actually, just don't use it to fill gaps, maybe it cures wrong when it
dries slow and be very careful of shelf life, no older than 3 months from
date of manufacture and the life expectancy goes up dramatically. Find out
from the women which brand holds the nails on the best.
Keith R
> Hi all,
> Kind of sounds like CA may be a clone of drop action Betsy Ross Lester
> elbows.
> Early demise after birth.
> Joe Goss
> imatunr@srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Roberts" <kpiano@goldrush.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 8:47 AM
> Subject: Re: loose pedal lyres
>
>
> > The main complaint about CA glues is they seem to have a life span of 3
to
> 5
> > years. Actually what happens is they get brittle. A tap with a hammer or
> > drop it lightly and the glue turns like a tempered glass window. Dust.
> This
> > is why it is not recommended to use CA glue to fill or span gaps. The
> least
> > gap, the least amount of glue = the stronger joint, the longest life
span.
> >
> > Keith R
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave Nereson" <dnereson@dimensional.com>
> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 11:56 PM
> > Subject: loose pedal lyres
> >
> >
> > >           What do you guys and gals do with loose pedal boxes, besides
> > > putting a book underneath (just kidding)?  I've always taken the lyre
to
> > the
> > > shop, drilled out the wedges (much drilling with different size bits
at
> > > various angles, followed by careful chiseling and gouging) until it
will
> > > knock apart with a rubber mallet, then sand, chisel, scrape off as
much
> > old
> > > glue as possible to get maximum bare wood exposure (but trying not to
> > reduce
> > > the dimensions of the tenons or expand the holes too much), then glue
> the
> > > whole thing together and insert new hardwood wedges (which I usually
> have
> > to
> > > make myself, axe and hammer handle wedges being too small -- does
> anybody
> > > sell bags of pre-cut wedges for piano lyres?), then clamp the whole
> > assembly
> > > overnight, then the next day, trim the ends of the wedges, clean up
and
> do
> > > minor touch-up  --  quite time consuming.    One tech I know doesn't
> > > bother -- he just CA-glues the heck out of it and says he's never had
a
> > > problem, but I don't trust it to last over the years.   If you do it
the
> > > long way, do you pound the wedges in while you're glueing the posts to
> the
> > > top block and pedal box, or do you wait until the assembly has dried,
> then
> > > pound the wedges in last?
> > >     With some Asian pianos, loose lyre parts produce "polyester
squeak",
> > > where two polished surfaces squeak against each other.  I've tried to
> > > chisel, sand, scrape the polyester away so I can glue bare wood to
bare
> > > wood, but polyester and any type of glue, for that matter, really
soaks
> > into
> > > the grain and makes the wood more like a hard plastic.   The pedal box
> > > sometimes isn't entirely of wood -- there can be a plastic insert
> > (mortise)
> > > where the tenon enters the pedal box but you can't see it because the
> > > polyester finish hides it.  It doesn't chisel, sand, or scrape without
> > > chipping or breaking or sending a crack across the whole top of the
> pedal
> > > box.  I guess CA would work here, but does it hold?  Will it last?
> > >
> > >                             --David Nereson, RPT, Denver
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>