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I agree with David here. Occasionally I have to re-level keys on a =
player install, in which the level is really out, and I always do it =
with the stack on. The only exception to this would be on a Steinway =
accelerated action, then I tend to use key weights.=20
The only difference in our methods would be perhaps the tools. I =
have a pair of spring tweezers ( you have to squeeze them to get them to =
open) which I have ground down on both sides to a point with a =
whetstone. I level all the C's, say, and then guesstimate the white's in =
that octave. I place the cut punchings under the cloth front rail =
punchings as I'm measuring and guessing. (Just lift the cloth, place the =
punchings half way under the cloth, and depress the key). When I think =
I've got it, I take a stiff wire jig, 14" long and about 1&1/2" high, =
put it under those keys, and lift them all up. Bill Spurlock teaches =
this, and I like the way it works. Then, I just lift the action up, and =
I can pull the punchings out and place them on the appropriate pins. The =
reason I ground the tweezers to a point is so that I can use them to =
raise the cloth punchings before grabbing the paper ones to place on the =
pins.=20
On the sharps, I place them on under the felt of the front pins just =
to the left of the sharps which I am leveling, that way I don't have to =
reach as far into the frame to retrieve them.=20
Once you do this one or two times, it goes really fast.=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From: David Love=20
To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2002 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings
I use the "stack on" procedure all the time and it works very well. I =
don't
think it's necessary to remove the stack and replace the split =
punchings.
They're not going anywhere. If you look under the keys of many =
Yamaha's you
will find many split punchings. The tricks are in the tools. =20
David Love
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