Baldwin caster socket questions

[Ron Nossaman]

>The music teacher said the right rear caster of the 1974 Baldwin studio
>school piano (typical Hamilton type) wasn't working properly.  I noticed
>it was angled, so I put the piano on the tilter and learned that the
>socket had failed.  The stem of the caster also appears bent a little
>and the caster is quite worn.  It took me more than a half hour to get
>the socket out, because it was expanded in the middle and wouldn't come
>out the hole!  I got it out, bit by bit, but it was tough.  Now to my
>questions.
>
>1.  Do I need to get a genuine Baldwin caster socket?

No, but the same high speed ramp jumps across door thresholds that messed 
up the single caster and socket have most likely messed up the others as 
well. I'd go back with a set of four sockets, glue, shims, LONGER screws 
than the pitiful originals, and a replacement caster set in case you find 
the others bent like the one you looked at. At the very least, all the 
other sockets will be loose enough to warrant resetting, so you have an 
excuse to check out the casters while you're there.


>3.  How important is the little brass collar toward the top of the
>Baldwin caster stem?  It is pretty well buggered up.

It holds the caster spindle in the socket when the piano is airborne. It 
normally wouldn't be missed until the piano is lifted or launched. In other 
words, it depends on where the piano is.


>  Can I buy just the
>little collar?

Yes, from the manufacturer, in 10,000 lots. Otherwise, no - at least as far 
as I know. Even if the little collar is ugly and snaggled up pretty badly, 
if it can be made to hold the caster in the socket, while still letting it 
swivel, it will work.


>4.  Should I try to buy new casters as well?  They show a lot of wear, I
>don't know whether I can straighten the stem, and the school will likely
>keep the piano for a practice room, even though it is so worn that I
>would advise them to replace it.

In this case, I would replace both sockets and casters. Spend whatever time 
and blood is necessary bedding those new sockets solidly.


>5.  The socket hole is now expanded in the center.  Does the socket's
>walls depend on a tight hole for support?

Yes, absolutely.


>If so, how do I fill up the
>place where the hole was made wider by the failed socket and the end of
>the socket stem?

I usually use what are euphemistically called "craft" sticks. These would 
be Popsicle sticks to anyone who once was, or currently still is a kid who 
remembers Eisenhower. They are cheaper than dirt in boxes of a thousand or 
so, made from a fine low grade but hard wood, and can be sharpened as 
necessary to defend yourself from anyone enquiring as to why you are 
driving a caster socket into a hole lined with Titebond and Popsicle 
sticks. They are also items of choice in the shop as epoxy stir sticks and 
such. Highly recommended.


>Any other advice would be helpful also.
>
>Regards,
>Clyde Hollinger

Hug the wife, because you can, and it's nice. Watch a sunset because it's 
there for you and it's a shame to waste something pretty. Heed ants, they 
forecast rain better than channel 12. Do something flagrantly self 
indulgent that doesn't cost anyone else anything, for the soul. And feed, 
but don't eat, more possum. They're pretty cool if you get to know them.

That should be enough for now.

Ron N