2-Part Pinblock

[Jon Page]

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At 05:15 PM 10/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Pinblock needs replacing (Chickering "Quarter Grand," age unknown, about 
>5' baby grand).
>Looks like the bass and treble/tenor have separate blocks at slightly 
>different heights. Also looks like the blocks are not set into the rim, 
>just screwed to the frame from underneath.   Anyone seen or replaced one 
>of  these?  Can it be replaced without removing the harp?
>Special issues or concerns? I have no, i.e., zip, zilch, zero, experience 
>replacing pinblocks. Alan R. Barnard, Salem, MO

Replacing this sectional block would be rather difficult (heroic/crazy) 
given your experience thus far. Even for the experienced, it is not a 
welcomed task.

However, there is a possibility that you may be able to bring this block 
back into service depending on the severity of delamination and the size of 
the pins
(or number of over-sized pins installed), you can epoxy it back to life.

This past Summer I restrung an 1884 Chickering grand.  The block was in 
three sections, stepped front and rear and fit on both sides,
oh yeah, with angled tops in the bass and tenor.  This was not a project I 
welcomed at that point.  I rose to the challenge with
Eopxy Technology 301 Epoxy (water thin).

Since 2/0 pins were removed and were not loose, my choice for this 
treatment was easy.  After the initial shock of viewing this
over-engineered marvel I noticed slight delamination.  So my 
'path-of-least-resistance' approach was to repair and install 3/0 pins.

The 301 was liberally applied to all pin holes, then brushed around until 
well permeated. To fill the gaps, I mixed in West System
Colloidal Silica Adhesive Filler and recoated the blocks and let that soak 
in.  I stacked the three blocks together with waxed paper
in between and clamped the lot between pin block material supported with 
wooden beams.  This sat for many days.

After pulling this apart, everything was tight and I let them cure in the 
open air for another week or two.

I used Ron N's two bit approach to drilling blocks and reamed the holes 
twice on the drill press.

I used 3/0, Low-torque tuning pins; they have a great feel in the block.

SO, chances are that your Chickering will not have the ends of the block 
sitting upon ledges on the rim and it is feasible
to drop the blocks out after de-stringing. (You haven't lived until you try 
to locate those machine screw holes blindly under a new block).

Whether or not the plate needs to be removed to repair the sound board or 
compensate down bearing is another question.
I would recommend that you also treat the bridge pins with the epoxy to 
firm them up.

Don't rush,




Regards,

Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@attbi.com
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