Upright Side Removal

Delwin D Fandrich pianobuilders@olynet.com
Wed, 16 Oct 2002 10:27:08 -0700


----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: October 16, 2002 9:36 AM
Subject: Upright Side Removal


> Any suggestions on removing the sides from an M&H 52" 1913 upright? What
is the best method making for the least damage (I'll be wanting to put it
back together)?
>
> Terry Farrell
>


You have basically two options:
    1)    Break them off.
    2)    Cut them off.

We have done both depending on the piano and the equipment available at the
time. Overall, it will be easier if they will come off by breaking the glue
joints. Put a couple of spreading pipe clamps across the outside edges of
the sides and begin wording wide chisels in along the joint between the side
and the back. Eventually something will give way. With luck that will be the
glue joint. Sometimes the veneer will stick to the back assembly--that's OK
you'll be gluing it all back together anyway.

In a one-man shop it is pretty difficult to cut the back loose on a table
saw so the alternative is to tip the piano on its face--supporting it by saw
horses inside--and cutting just inside the joint (on the back post side of
the joint) between the back assembly and the side with a portable circular
saw. The larger the blade diameter the better--you might consider renting a
12" saw for the occasion. These are tough to handle so make sure you have a
really sharp blade and go slow. Make a good saw guide and clamp it SECURELY
to the back panel.

This can be simply made of thin hardboard with a hardwood straightedge glued
and screwed to one edge. Start with a strip of hardboard somewhat wider than
you are going to need. Glue a maple straightedge to one edge. This
straightedge should be at least two or three inches (50 to 75 mm) wide to
give you plenty of clamping space and to stiffen the side that will be
hanging over the back posts. (You'll see what I mean once you start
cutting!) Once the glue is dry run the saw along and trim off the excess.
You can now clamp the guide to the back with the edge exactly one saw blades
width inside the original glue line and cut. If the saw blade doesn't go all
the way through, don't worry, the rest will break free fairly easily.

When it is time to put the piano back together you will use a maple (or
similar) veneer spacer on each side between the back assembly and the sides
to compensate for the saw kerf.

Good luck....

Del


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