This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment On Wed, 16 Oct 2002 16:45:11 EDT Erwinspiano@aol.com writes: In a message dated 10/16/2002 11:38:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time, bases-loaded@juno.com writes: Subj:Re: Piano Lac Finish Date:10/16/2002 11:38:53 AM Pacific Daylight Time From:bases-loaded@juno.com Reply-to:pianotech@ptg.org To:pianotech@ptg.org Sent from the Internet So my question is what kind of rubout are you doing. How's the clarity? Whats the process? I'll can't except anything muddy / hazy looking myself. By the way what product are you using???????? Thanks again. Still grinding away in Modesto>>>>Dale Erwin Hi Dale - Like you, I wet sand to 600-800, and follow with 4/0 steel wool w/ Mohawk's wool lube or equivalent. These rubbing lubricants are water-based, and I have used them many times with no problem, but only after the finish has cured a week or more. I prefer them over the oil/paraffin lubes. You can also use the grey scotchbrite pad in place of the wool, but I think you will find it more like a 2/0 or 3/0 wool, leaving the surface a bit more dull than 4/0 wool does. (I would avoid wool between coats, though.) The scotchbrite can certainly be used as an intermediate step between the paper and the wool, too, if desired. For higher sheen/clarity, I frequently use Abralon pads from Supergrit Abrasives, which are circular foam pads of grits from 500-4000 that work great either by attaching them to a random orbit sander (as they were designed) or by hand. They practically never wear out, you just rinse them out and re-use. Incredibly uniform abrasives. To ensure clarity, sometimes I use these pads to rub out well beyond satin to completely eliminate all signs of scratch pattern, then bring it back down to satin or semi with 4/0 wool. I sometimes follow with paste wax, but not always. It does bring up the sheen, filling in the micro scratches from the wool. This is worth noting: Because the film is typically harder than nitro, rub out can be a bit more aerobic, if you know what I mean, requiring more rubbing with the wool/scotchbrite to eliminate the sanding scratch pattern created from the 600. Nitro, being softer, succumbs much more quickly. You may get quite fond of that random orbit sander....:-). (Hey, nobobdy said nitro doesn't have alot going for it!) In terms of product, the last few years I have been using finishes from Target Coatings, and also from Aquacote, both with good success. There is a very good finish from California I used for several years called Enduro, and I was very pleased with it. I eventually switched to suppliers who were closer due to problems shipping the stuff cross-country in the dead of winter. If it freezes, it's probable death. Bad juju when you're stuck without product in Ohio in January and they're shipping it from California. Not much of a cure for the winter blues when your finish arives D.O.A.!!! Mark Potter bases-loaded@juno.com ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/ee/95/50/d0/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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