key dip, dip in.....

Kdivad@aol.com Kdivad@aol.com
Fri, 18 Oct 2002 18:08:08 EDT


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In a message dated 10/18/02 4:13:55 PM Central Daylight Time,=20
jonpage@attbi.com writes:


> At 08:49 PM 10/18/2002 +0200, you wrote:
> > > Andr=E9,
> > > I too set all key dips to 10mm but would like to know one thing...
> > > What is the consensus about where along the keystick does this 10mm ge=
t
> > > measured,
> > > at the front, back a little further or over the front rail pin.
> > >
> > > Also, are there differences between these manufacturers about the dip=20
> > on sharps.
>=20
> >We should always put the key dip tool (the little plastic Yamaha or=20
> Steinway
> >block) at the front and feel with our finger the connection with the left
> >key and the right key because very often the keys are not horizontal but=20
> lie
> >at an angle (because the balance rail pins are usually not exactly 90=BA.
> >If the key is slightly falling to one side and you measure for instance=20
> only
> >the right side you get a distorted picture.
> >I have made it my custom to very fast shift the key dip measure block fro=
m
> >left to right and my finger goes along, feeling the differences on either
> >side. Most manufacturers use 12 mm for the sharps.
>=20
> Yes, I split the difference 'left-to-right' when measuring with the block=20
> and set the sharps' height ~12mm, but that did not answer the questions.
> Not having either of the above mentioned key dip blocks, I can't measure=20
> that spec.  I have a 3/8" block with some punchings glued to the bottom,
> sanded scientifically set to .390 (just a bit back making the front - not=20
> the overhang - making the front 10mm).
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>          Actually, the punchings are glued to what some may call the top,=20
> the side with the overhang.  I was shown to place the dip block 'upside=20
> down'
>          on the key, thereby having the overhang on the block mated to the=
=20
> overhang on the key while depressing. It is a lot faster than aligning
>          the overhang to the adjacent keys once depressed.
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> I've heard differing theories on 'dip' - where to measure and to how=20
> judge/calibrate sharp dip, and am curious to find out what someone with=20
> your vast
> experience can boil it all down to... and what if any are the factory's=20
> particulars in these regards.
>=20
> Warm greetings from sunny Cape Cod,
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
> Jon Page,   piano technician
> Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
> mailto:jonpage@attbi.com
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>=20
>=20

Jon and Andre, the one thing I have learned over the years is that nothing i=
s=20
set in stone.  I believe the 10mm dip is a good figure that I use myself as=20=
a=20
starting point and I must admit it works quite well in most cases.  But with=
=20
all engineering and designs not being equal I find there are quite a few=20
times it is necessary to compromise a little.
There is a key dip tool from Mazzaglia Tools (978-372-1319), I have used for=
=20
a number of years and find it magnificant for setting an extremely consistan=
t=20
key dip.
It consists of a 400 gram weight that rests on the key top (with ears to=20
assure consistancy in placement) and a cross piece that rests on the two=20
adjacent keys centered on a pin adjustable for heighth to guage the correct=20
dip dimension.  It is not as functional on sharps but I just use the weight=20
in conjuction with a Jaras dip tool to set the dip on sharps.

David Koelzer
Vintage Pianos
DFW

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