"white glue"

[Mike and Jane Spalding]

Susan,

Thanks for the full explanation posts.  And the article reference, which I will now go and read.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Susan Kline <sckline@attbi.com>
To: Alan R. Barnard <mathstar@salemnet.com>; Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, October 18, 2002 12:46 AM
Subject: Re: "white glue"


> At 08:09 PM 10/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >Thanks for nifty post. But I don't understand the function of the white
> >glue. Why not just a thickish CA like Bondini? Do you use white rather than
> >Titebond just for the color? (It's one more thing to care--and protect from
> >freezing)
> >
> >Plastic AND ivory? Any difference in reaction?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Alan Barnard
> >Stickin' Down Keytops in Salem, MO
> 
> I usually just use water-thin CA after being sure I have a good fit.
> However, I think that the Elmer's-CA makes an even stronger bond,
> and would be better in very dry climates, where it's hard to make
> CA set sometimes.
> 
> I use Elmer's because I don't like how thick the Titebond is, and
> because Elmer's seems to give a longer working time. The yellow
> color would be another reason to avoid it under keytops, though.
> The white glue aids in setting the CA glue. (See my article --
> October 1997.)
> 
> Elmer's seems to survive freezing quite well, though it seldom
> would freeze inside a kit, inside a car, in Oregon. I carry
> CA and Elmer's (both very small bottles) in my kit, and epoxy
> in the car. Any other glue seems superfluous to me.
> 
> CA seems to stick down both ivory and plastic equally well. The
> difference is that if some gets on top of the keytop, it will
> mar the plastic, but can be removed from the ivory without damage.
> 
> Susan
> 
> 
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