I've also been doing the epoxy fitting for some time because I feel a get a better fit of block to plate. I work on the block until I get a good fit. As some are pointing out, this fit may not be as critical as we've been lead to believe, so getting a very close fit and the epoxy treatment may be overkill. On the other hand, it doesn't take me much longer to get a good fit than a poor one and the epoxy treatment takes all of 5 to 10 minutes, so why take chances with a poor fit. Slather the plate flange with paste wax, mix some epoxy to paste consistency, put a some along the edge of the pinblock (you shouldn't need that much if you already have a good fit) and clamp block in place. Leave until epoxy is hard, remove block, and wipe off wax. By the way, I also fit the top of the pinblock to the underside of the plate. I do not use epoxy on this face. Phil F > I still do it because it insures a perfect fit > to the > flange. I can only go through carving the > block for so long. I get > it to fit as close as is reasonable in a > reasonable amount of time, use marine > epoxy paste which is very thick and doesn't run > all over the place. Smear > on just enough to have a small bit of squeeze > out, wipe off the excess and it's > done. > > David Love > > > I > didn't realize folks were going to the > trouble of epoxy fitting the block to > the flange. For what purpose?. I've done it > years ago what a mess. I don't > find any tuning stability problems with a > nice block to flange fit. Is this > insurance or what. Somebody kindly splain dis > to me. There's already so many > pickin details in complete remanufacture. > Really! Dale > E.
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