Glide bolts

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Ed,
            That's why I mentioned the stack as being a source of problems 
in some cases. I guess what I was trying to say was, trouble shoot the 
source, and fix accordingly.
I also shim the feet of the brackets, if that is where the problem is 
coming from.
  I also only like to see about .002" from the frame to the underside of 
the dags in winter. That gets me snug in summer, if the frame has well 
burnished graphite, then no problems with hang up in the high humidity cycle.
Steinway hard wood frames are a lot different than Yamaha soft wood.

For gross fitting, I fit 3 ways.  1.  Frame alone.  2.  Frame with stack. 
3. Finally frame fully loaded with keys and stack.

Regards Roger

At 04:55 PM 10/29/02 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >Roger wrote:
>  >> Key frame fitting with out the stack on, is a waste of time, since the
> >> stack often distorts the frame. The stack to frame fit, can also be the
> >> source of the bedding problem, particularly on soft wood frames.
>
>Umm,  I dunno.  I find the most stable results from bedding the keyframe
>without keys or stack on it, then placing the stack on there and making sure
>that all the "feet" are sitting evenly on the cleats. This way, there is no
>tendency of the metal stack to warp the wooden keyframe.  With everything
>relaxed, I use shims under the stack's feet to fit it to the keyframe.
>    If the stack doesn't sit evenly on all its feet and you go ahead and 
> screw
>it down, then bed the keyframe, it will leave a stress in the keyframe that
>will cause it to move when the weather changes,(since the wood doesn't react
>like the metal, particularly in the Steinways).  If you keep the action's
>foundation relaxed from the bottom up, this problem is greatly reduced.
>Regards,
>Ed Foote RPT
>
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