Glide bolts

[Roger Jolly]

Hi Ric,
                 Make saw kerfs on the under side of the frame every 6" and 
about half way thro' the frame has worked well for me in most cases.
Option #2.  Make sure you have enough hold down power with the cheek 
blocks, to stop it from rising up. Regulate the dip and after touch with 
the blocks tightened.
Now that may mean using another manufacturers hold down cleats.   OMG it's 
no longer a Steinway.  I should be burned at the stake.

Regards Roger


At 10:34 PM 10/29/02 +0100, you wrote:
>So Roger.... grin...
>
>What are your recommendations for keybeds that curl upwards on the ends during
>the winter ? I have this Steinway C for example... you know, one of the two at
>the Grieg acadamy. It shows a 65 mm key height, just barely enough aftertouch.
>10 mm dip on the plus side, and the ends just curled up a week ago when the
>cold weather set in ?
>
>Curious to hear any other opinions for that matter.
>
>Cheers
>
>RicB
>
>Roger Jolly wrote:
>
> > Hi David,
> >                 Yes it would.
> >   I often glue a veneer in the area just under the dags, then sand to fit
> > for a firm, yet still free hold down.   Sanding and fitting the back rail
> > can be a pain.
> > Key frame fitting with out the stack on, is a waste of time, since the
> > stack often distorts the frame. The stack to frame fit, can also be the
> > source of the bedding problem, particularly on soft wood frames.
> >
> > Regards Roger
> >
>
>--
>Richard Brekne
>RPT, N.P.T.F.
>UiB, Bergen, Norway
>mailto:rbrekne@broadpark.no
>http://home.broadpark.no/~rbrekne/ricmain.html
>
>
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