Plate Suspension--Carl Meyer

[Erwinspiano@aol.com]

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In a message dated 12/7/2003 11:49:37 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
cmpiano@comcast.net writes:
The hanger bolts I referred to have wood type screw threads on one end and 
machine threads on the other.  I'm more comfortable with the wood screws into 
the rim.  The holes need to be waxed (bees wax) so that a slot cut in the top of 
the screw can be used to position the plate.  You'll need to lock the nut 
under the plate.  I typically use a set screw  into the side of the nut.  A brass 
or chrome cap nut (acorn nut) and washer finishes the job.

Carl Meyer Ptg assoc
Santa Clara, Ca.
     Carl, Refresh my memory on what exactly is a hanger bolt.  Ok Draw me a 
picture this sounds to easy.  I'm envisioning a wood threaded device, say 3 
"of 1/2" thread & then it has another half or part that is, say an 1 to 2 inches 
long which is a machine thread. The wood threads go all the way into the rim 
& the machine screw threads extends up thru the plate boss. The nut which has 
been lock tighted to the threads extends thru the plate. Then you're adjusting 
the hole thing by turning the top with a screw driver to set plate height & 
when done the cap nut goes on. So as in the Coleman suspension system the 
amount of machine thread protruding thru the plate boss can't be any taller than 
the cap nut. Right?  the only problem with this is that on S&S the plate often 
sits within  .050 of the board surface at the perimeter. On the Coleman system 
I have had the bolt heads thinned to that amount.What can be done here?
  Can you provide me with a source or send me a box with nuts & washers?
  Thanks-- Dale Erwin

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