This matches my experience, too. Lately, though, I've been doing a lot of 1-pass tunings when the piano is within 5-8 cents flat. What I do is completely tune the middle section. After this, I'll tune the treble using a strip, tuning each section after the middle strings are all tuned. Since the treble is flat, I'll tune octaves sharp, trying to offset what I "feel" will be the amount they will drop. When those treble unisons are tuned, usually things fall about the right amount. There will be a few notes off, requiring retuning (mostly shimming). Usually, things turn out OK. I think this gives the customer a pretty good deal: no extra charge for a pitch raise, and it sounds OK. It really doesn't take that much longer to tune that way--you just keep moving and realize that the customer is not likely to be as critical as a tuner would. After all, they could have it tuned more often than every 3 years. :-) John Formsma > You have proved in the past that you are a brave man! I think your > procedures and analysis is correct here. The brave part is declaring > on this list that the piano doesn't have to be within 0.002 cents > before you start to get good results. Personally, I think one of the > big differences is that you tune the unisons as you go. I have > always believed that strip muting the whole piano requires that it be > much closer than if you do the unisons as you go. I don't know all > of the science involved in this phenomenon, and I don't have time to > explain my conjecture, but I'm convinced that stripping the whole > piano requires starting with a more in-tune piano. > > dave
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