This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Comments below: > At 9:46 PM -0400 5/22/03, Farrell wrote: > >Another thing to keep in mind with epoxy - it relies on a mechanical=20 > >bond between wood and epoxy and between metal and epoxy. It is=20 > >recommended by West System that when bonding with epoxy to metal=20 > >that the metal surface be sanded rough, coated with thin epoxy, and=20 > >the epoxy sanded into the metal for the most secure bond. >=20 > Oh boy, this sounds like a job for a compulsive-obsessive! >=20 > >A nice new shiny bridge pin is not likely to establish a good bond=20 > >to epoxy. I can chip epoxy off any glossy surface real easy when I=20 > >get waste on it - my floor, table top, etc. >=20 > Are we really depending on the epoxy to glue the pin in the hole? I=20 > thought we just wanted a tight fit, using epoxy's gap-filling=20 > abilities. A pin in a raw maple hole isn't being glued in. This response was related to Richard B.'s post describing a method of = installing bridge pins into a hole larger than the bridge pin. I assume = here that "a pin in a raw maple hole" means a snug fit. =20 > Bill Ballard RPT > NH Chapter, P.T.G. > Bonding wood to steel isn't the intent here, merely zero clearance = support.=20 > Toward that end, I still prefer at least a light drive fit regardless = of=20 > the addition of CA, epoxy, or nothing at all. > Ron N No, but list contributors have posted previously about pins being bonded = permanently into bridge pin holes. I was just trying to spread a fun = fact about epoxy (useful at slow dinner parties). ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/d8/b1/e3/bc/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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