I drill a hole through the rib, fill it with glue then
use a SS rod ( or long drill bit ) as a plunger. This
rams the glue between the rib and board very nicely,
squeezing it into those tight places which would be
hard to get at, otherwise.
Thump
--- Dean May <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com> wrote:
> Hi Joe,
>
> Use the syringe but forget about the needle. It just
> makes it require more
> pressure to squeeze the glue out. Just use the
> plastic nib the needle screws
> onto; jam the nib into your drilled hole (seems like
> 1/8 is about the right
> size). The needles are good if you need to reach
> somewhere. But for this
> one, you got the hole right there in front of you,
> no reaching required.
>
> I'm sure it would work on bridges if you can get the
> hole in the right spot.
> Works great on separated ribs and backposts, also. I
> really like the
> urethane glue for this application, 'cause as you
> said, it fills all the
> voids and is super sticky.
>
> Blessings,
>
> Dean
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On Behalf
> Of Joe And Penny Goss
> Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2004 10:32 PM
> To: Pianotech
> Subject: Re: Baldwin Hamilton loose side panel
>
> Hey Dean,
> I like that idea a lot better than my way. 1/8"
> drill and vet
> 1/8" OD long needle and syringe. I have a dose
> syringe that would let me
> power the glue in. Come to think of it one might
> even consider using liquid
> hide glue.
> Now looking for a piano to try it on <G>
> Come to think of it this could work on loose bridges
> from the back?
> Joe Goss RPT
> Mother Goose Tools
> imatunr@srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> pianotech list info:
> https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
>
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