Hi Sarah, I use 0.105" lead wire to add weight to hammers. I drill a hole in the hammer moulding and tap/swedge in the lead. To loose weight, I use the Spurlock hammer tapering jig - http://www.spurlocktools.com/id35.htm . Are you aware of David Stanwood's hammer weight curves? I would recommend you consider doing your SWs to an appropriate Stanwood SW curve. He has done a lot of work to come up with these. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sarah Fox" <sarah@graphic-fusion.com> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2004 6:18 PM Subject: Re: Hammer Tail Cove and SW > Hi Ric, Jon, whomever, > > A related question for you, sort of... > > I'm about to start evening out the SW on a new set of hammers (nice ones! > :-) I've measured out all the starting strike weights on a centigram > balance and entered them in an excel spreadsheet. The curve is pretty > linear. I only need to adjust out the jags. I did a linear regression > analysis to find the best fit to the line. I need to remove as much as .45g > and add as much as .60g (mostly just above the bass/tenor break). What's > the best way to do this? > > I presume the jags are mostly from slight irregularities in hammer width, so > is the best way to remove weight to thin the hammer slightly on the sides? > > Is the best way to add weight to add something like epoxy or lead? If lead > is the way to go, is it feasible to press small bits of solid-core solder > into a drilled hole in the molding? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks! > > Peace, > Sarah > > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >
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