Sarah: I too think that most of the variance in weight is from the disparate width of the hammers. I have done as you have with a spreadsheet. You can thin the hammers sides, but you must be careful to take some from both sides if they have already been bored. If they are yet to be bored you can just thin them on one side then bore them in the center. I did add some weight with lead (Pianotek sells some lead weights for hammers I think). dave __________________________________________ David M. Porritt, RPT Meadows School of the Arts Southern Methodist University Dallas, TX 75275 dporritt@mail.smu.edu ----- Original message ----------------------------------------> From: Sarah Fox <sarah@graphic-fusion.com> To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org> Received: Sat, 21 Aug 2004 18:18:45 -0400 Subject: Re: Hammer Tail Cove and SW >Hi Ric, Jon, whomever, >A related question for you, sort of... >I'm about to start evening out the SW on a new set of hammers (nice ones! >:-) I've measured out all the starting strike weights on a centigram >balance and entered them in an excel spreadsheet. The curve is pretty >linear. I only need to adjust out the jags. I did a linear regression >analysis to find the best fit to the line. I need to remove as much as .45g >and add as much as .60g (mostly just above the bass/tenor break). What's >the best way to do this? >I presume the jags are mostly from slight irregularities in hammer width, so >is the best way to remove weight to thin the hammer slightly on the sides? >Is the best way to add weight to add something like epoxy or lead? If lead >is the way to go, is it feasible to press small bits of solid-core solder >into a drilled hole in the molding? >Any advice would be greatly appreciated. >Thanks! >Peace, >Sarah >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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