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To all who answered,
Thanks for the valuable information. All who answered said no to CA
accelerator on pin blocks.
Joe Garrett: I'll e-mail regarding your work in Klamath Falls.
Thanks again,
George Tyson
In a message dated 1/31/04 2:00:09 PM Pacific Standard Time,
imatunr@srvinet.com writes:
> Hi George.
> Why waste the money on activator when the glue will set on its own? Also I
> only use CA in situations where there is little or no stress on the bond like
> tuning pins, bridge pins and stripped screw holes and want the clearness of
> the glue to hide the fact that a repair has been done. A trained eye can still
> tell but anyone can tell if too much activator is used. One other thing
> that causes me to forgo the use of activator is that I worry about getting the
> chem on places that it should not be like bass styring windings.
> Oh and one other thing comes to mind. When the activator is used there seems
> to be a greater release of the vapors that I do not want to breathe.
> Joe Goss
> imatunr@srvinet.com
> www.mothergoosetools.com
>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: TysonPiano@aol.com
>> To: pianotech@ptg.org
>> Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 3:12 AM
>> Subject: Re: CA update procedure
>>
>>
>> Hi Joe Goss, Joe Garrett, and List,
>> I'm George Tyson, Associate Member in Southern Oregon's
>> Rogue Valley Chapter. I'm curious about the results of using accelerator
>> when CA gluing tuning pins. I've CA'd two spinets (not together) using
>> accelerator on one and no accelerator on the other. Both pin blocks tightened up
>> nicely. I haven't followed up yet on second tunings for either of these
>> pianos.
>> Joe Garrett: When you CA'd the German Upright did you use accelerator?
>> Has this List come to any sort of agreement regarding whether to use or
>> not to use accelerator? I looks like Joe Goss says no to activator. When
>> I've phoned the Dryburgh company I've been told yes to accelerator.
>>
>> George Tyson, Klamath Falls, OR
>>
>> In a message dated 1/26/04 8:13:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>> imatunr@srvinet.com writes:
>>
>>
>> >>> Hi Calin, and list, This is a update on ideas in my use of CA glue in
>>> treating loose tuning pins.
>>> Great,
>>> If you use the CA on a grand be sure to take the action out and cover the
>>> bed with news print ( paper ).
>>> Also the glue will run a lot so the use of a very fine needle ( I use my
>>> insulin micro fine needles ) will put the glue exactly where you want it
>>> to
>>> be. Use a paper towel near where you are working as each time you move the
>>> needle there may be some drips that go where you do not want them.
>>> Also a two pass approach is best just like in tuning. And in sections of
>>> perhaps 24 pins.
>>> You may want to mark the top of the pins with chalk for each section until
>>> you get the idea of where you are going to go next. Treat a section at a
>>> time with the first and go back over with a second pass.
>>> Look for the welling up of the glue to let you know to stop but also as a
>>> warning that the glue is going down a crack. In this case stop and go on
>>> to
>>> the next pin letting the glue set up a little before adding more.`
>>> You should be able to start tuning the instrument when the last pin is
>>> treated as the moisture in the wood and friction of pressure will cause
>>> the
>>> glue to set up a little. Full cure in a day or so without any activator.
>>> If you do an upright you may want the instrument to be on its back, but I
>>> have treated a few pins with the needle with the instrument standing. It
>>> is
>>> a pain in my back to do it this way but a few pins are not too bad.
>>> Joe Goss
>>>
>>
>>
>
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