I believe the actual Ivory glue sold by Jahn's, Renner and the like is the old hide glue mixed with white powder (titanium dioxide) it works quite well assuming you have presses and you warm everything (it is olso easy to unglue and correct in case of error) .easy to scrap or clean, when hard, it is very hard (after some weeks I guess, while the glue set fast enough so the pressing is not long) I just dont use a sander if the tails are fine and the front only is gone, what matters often is the transparency and greyish look of the white(vynil based) gle once dry. Indeed if too much ivory work to be done I send that to a friend that specialized in keyboard repairs. He unglue the tails before gluing new (old ivories) or if the surface is too messy indeed, then he sand with a "tank" (horizontal sanding belt standing 90° on a saw table.Th white glue/cyano cloag the belt too much was said. I was shown to mix vynil glue it with a white stone powder, kind of marble ,something else than the usual white, if I where to use that vynil glue trick in the field (I rarely do). In the shop, A little slant on the joint 3° approx. allows it to be invisible (if the joint is square) A thin knife kerf on the wood a few tenths before the tail/front joint allow the excess glue to go out on the sides and not in the joint . Are glue wafers heat activated ? is it possible to employ these in the field ? Best Regards. Isaac
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