Gregg...titanium dioxide?

[Robin Stevens]

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 Most paint shops in my part of the world mix these dyes into the paint a=
s a
liquid additive. Did you get a jar of powder, or liquid?=0D
I know there is a powder whitening medium available at french polishing
supply stores.=0D
=0D
regards.  =0D
 =0D
 Robin Stevens=0D
Convener "INTUNE SA 2004"=0D
22-25 July 2004 Mercure Grosvenor Adelaide SA=0D
08 8633 0533 mmrr6596@bigpond.net.au=0D
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-------Original Message-------=0D
 =0D
From: Pianotech=0D
Date: 5/01/2004 2:12:59 AM=0D
To: pianotech@ptg.org=0D
Subject: Re: Ivory keytops=0D
 =0D
Paint stores use titanium dioxide as a whitener for their paints.  I aske=
d
this same question on this list a couple of years ago, and promptly went =
in
to my local Kelly-Moore and asked for some, expecting to buy a small amou=
nt
for a large amount of money.  Au contraire, the employee who helped me GA=
VE
me a small jarful.  I guess it's pretty cheap and easy to come by.   And =
it
works! =0D
=0D
In a message dated 1/2/04 9:52:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, cdgregg@telus
net writes: =0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
White Gesso or acrylic titanium white pigment from your local art supply =
=0D
mixed with high tack fish glue from Lee Valley Tools will do a nice job o=
f =0D
gluing on your ivories, if you are not using ivory wafers. =0D
=0D
Chris Gregg =0D
=0D
At 08:48 PM 1/2/2004, you wrote: =0D
>Thanks Richard, =0D
> =0D
>ivory : ivory glue (hide + titanium) or if not possible whitening your =0D
>usual glue with titanium or a white stone powder. =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
>------------------------------------ =0D
>Isaac OLEG =0D
>accordeur - reparateur - concert =0D
>oleg-i@noos.fr =0D
>19 rue Jules Ferry =0D
>94400 VITRY sur SEINE =0D
>tel: 033 01 47 18 06 98 =0D
>fax: 33 01 47 18 06 90 =0D
>mobile: 033 06 60 42 58 77 =0D
>------------------------------------ =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> > -----Message d'origine----- =0D
> > De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org =0D
> > [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la =0D
> > part de John Ross =0D
> > Envoy=E9 : samedi 3 janvier 2004 03:29 =0D
> > =C0 : Pianotech =0D
> > Objet : Re: Ivory keytops =0D
> > =0D
> > =0D
> > Hi Richard, =0D
> > I know the PVC-E will come off the plastic keytops with =0D
> > water. Did you try =0D
> > and remove it? =0D
> > The glue remains flexible, so you could also try a razor blade. =0D
> > The PVC-E should be OK. I sometimes use Duco cement. But =0D
> > with all the glues, =0D
> > keep your fingers clean. =0D
> > Regards, =0D
> > John M. Ross =0D
> > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada =0D
> > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca =0D
> > ----- Original Message ----- =0D
> > From: "Richard Strang" <rstrang@pa.inter.net> =0D
> > To: "pianotech (E-mail)" <pianotech@ptg.org> =0D
> > Sent: Friday, January 02, 2004 10:12 PM =0D
> > Subject: Ivory keytops =0D
> > =0D
> > =0D
> > > Hello, list, =0D
> > >    Once again, I learned a big lesson the very hard way, =0D
> > so I thought I'd =0D
> > > share my grief with you all. =0D
> > >    I worked on an old player upright last night. It was a =0D
> > 1907 variety, =0D
> > but =0D
> > > someone in California had rebuilt it very well. Why? Who =0D
> > knows? But it was =0D
> > > in very good shape, and close to pitch. =0D
> > >    All the ivory keytops, the squares, were coming off. =0D
> > about 15 had been =0D
> > > off for quite some time, but the customer had saved them =0D
> > and gave them to =0D
> > me =0D
> > > to glue back on. I also gave a tug at all the rest that =0D
> > had not come off =0D
> > yet =0D
> > > and found that most of them were loose. I got out my =0D
> > trusty PVC-E glue and =0D
> > > proceeded to glue them all back on. =0D
> > >    My big mistake? The glue paints on very white and =0D
> > pretty, and I took it =0D
> > > for granted that it would dry that way and would hide the =0D
> > finger prints =0D
> > and =0D
> > > other imperfections that were on the top of the keys that =0D
> > had not had a =0D
> > > keytop on for a while. When I started taking the rubber =0D
> > bands off and =0D
> > > reinstalling the keys, I got a big surprise. PVC-E glue =0D
> > dries perfectly =0D
> > > clear, leaving all imperfections glaring through the =0D
> > keytop which were all =0D
> > > very well glued on now. The job looks terrible, even =0D
> > though there are now =0D
> > > keytops installed which I'm sure feel very much better =0D
> > than the key did =0D
> > > without the ivory. Even so, it is very obvious which keys =0D
> > had been bare =0D
> > for =0D
> > > a while. Should have I used another white glue, such as =0D
> > Titebond? I have =0D
> > > always stayed away from the regular white glues for =0D
> > keytops. Anyway, a =0D
> > word =0D
> > > to the wise. Don't do what I did. If you are going to use =0D
> > PVC-E glue for =0D
> > > ivory keytops, make sure the keytop surface is WHITE =0D
> > before gluing. Lesson =0D
> > > learned. =0D
> > > =0D
> > > Richard =0D
> > > =0D
> > > PS. The player was also rebuilt. All the bellows were =0D
> > new. The entire part =0D
> > > that sits over the keys was in new condition. Much of the =0D
> > rest of the =0D
> > player =0D
> > > mechanism was gone though, so the player will never play =0D
> > again. Anyone =0D
> > need =0D
> > > bellows? Other parts? =0D
> > > =0D
> > > _______________________________________________=0D
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