This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment >From http://www.westsystem.com/ : This site really has tons and tons of = excellent info on epoxy use. Terry Farrell Adhesive Fillers vs. Fairing Fillers Fillers are used to thicken the basic resin/hardener mixture for = specific applications. Each filler possesses a unique set of physical = characteristics, but they can be generally categorized as either = Adhesive (high-density) or Fairing (low-density). Adhesive filler mixtures cure to a strong, hard-to-sand plastic useful = in structural applications like bonding, filleting and hardware bonding. Fairing filler mixtures cure to light, easily sandable material that is = generally used for cosmetic or surface applications like shaping, = filling or fairing. ADHESIVE FILLERS 403 Microfibers 403 Microfibers, a fine fiber blend, is used as a thickening additive = with resin/hardener to create a multi-purpose adhesive, especially for = bonding wood. Epoxy thickened with microfibers has good gap-filling = qualities while retaining excellent wetting/penetrating capability. = Color: off-white. 404 High-Density Filler 404 High-Density filler is a thickening additive developed for maximum = physical properties in hardware bonding where high-cyclic loads are = anticipated. It can also be used for filleting and gap filling where = maximum strength is necessary. Color: off-white. 405 Filleting Blend This strong, wood-toned filler is good for use in glue joints and = fillets on naturally finished wood. It mixes easily with epoxy and lets = you create fillets that are smooth and require little sanding. Its color = is a consistent brown, so 405 can be used to modify the shade of other = WEST SYSTEM fillers. 406 Colloidal Silica 406 Colloidal Silica is a thickening additive used to control the = viscosity of the epoxy and prevent epoxy runoff in vertical and overhead = joints. 406 is a very strong filler that creates a smooth mixture, ideal = for general bonding and filleting. It is also our most versatile filler. = Often used in combination with other fillers, it can be used to improve = the improve strength, abrasion resistance, and consistency of fairing = compounds, resulting in a tougher, smoother surface. Color: off-white.=20 FAIRING FILLERS 407 Low-Density Filler 407 Low-Density filler is a blended microballoon-based filler used to = make fairing putties that are easy to sand or carve. Reasonably strong = on a strength-to-weight basis. Cures to a dark red/brown color. 410 MicrolightTM 410 MicrolightTM is the ideal low-density filler for creating a light, = easily-worked fairing compound especially suited for fairing large = areas. Microlight mixes with greater ease than 407 Low-Density filler or = microballoons and is approximately 30% easier to sand. It feathers to a = fine edge and is also more economical for large fairing jobs. Not = recommended under dark paint or other surfaces subject to high = temperatures. Cures to a tan color. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: "Isaac OLEG" <oleg-i@noos.fr> To: <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>; "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 6:27 PM Subject: RE: Plugging capstan holes > Hi Dave, what is Microlite ? >=20 > Thanks for your detailed explanations, it is interesting. >=20 > Are some epoxy quality more easy to drill and tap than others, or is > it mostly the added powder that helps the final material to be easy to > work with ? >=20 > I have bought along the grain dowels from a wood merchant. these are > used to plug knot holes in wooden floors. They are not very round, but > suitable from 8 to 12 mm , in hard woods. >=20 > But the epoxy method seem fine indeed. >=20 > best regards. >=20 > Isaac OLEG >=20 >=20 > -----Message d'origine----- > De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De la > part de David Love > Envoye : mercredi 19 mai 2004 23:26 > A : Pianotech > Objet : RE: Plugging capstan holes >=20 >=20 > I fill the entire hole with epoxy. West system and a generaous amount > of > microlite (410). Put it in a glue syringe and fill them up. I insert > the > syringe all the way to the bottom and back it out as squeeze to get > the > stuff to the bottom of the hole. The top usually sags a bit and so > you > need to go over it a couple of times within, usually, about 30 > minutes. > Even then the stuff will eventuall sag a bit leaving a slight > indentation. > I've dealt with this two ways and I'm not really sure which I prefer, > but > both work. First, let them sag to slightly below key level. After > the > epoxy starts to set up--the slow set stuff will harden quite slowly > but > reaches a point where it will not sag anymore--I mix up another batch > using > both microlite and colloidal silica (406). Mix it to the consistency > of > whipped butter or mashed potatoes and then take an artists palette > knife > and fill in the small indentation flush to the key top. When it all > hardens sand smooth with an orbital sander right in the key frame. > You can > block the key ends to hold them more steady. The other method > involves > adding a bit more of the original batch out of the syringe as it > starts to > thicken so that it sets up higher than the top of the key stick. > Before it > totally hardens trim with a sharp chisel (wax it a bit first to keep > it > from sticking) or a sharp japanese knife. Clean up with an orbital > sander. >=20 >=20 > I don't like using dowels to plug the holes because I don't like > drilling > and screwing capstans into the endgrain of a dowel. You can, as some > do, > cut plugs out of old keys, drill the hole larger to cover the > coutersink, > plug and trim. I find that it takes too long. The epoxy holds the > capstan > just fine and, once hardened, drills and taps without any problems. >=20 > BTW make sure that the old capstan holes aren't drilled all the way > through the key. Yep, I did find that out the hard way. Thought I'd > entered the Twilight Zone with a capstan hole that just never seemed > to > want to fill up....imagine if you will.. >=20 > David Love > davidlovepianos@earthlink.net >=20 >=20 > > [Original Message] > > From: Phillip Ford <fordpiano@earthlink.net> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > Date: 5/19/2004 11:39:28 AM > > Subject: Plugging capstan holes > > > > Would anyone care to offer some advice on plugging capstan holes? > They > are often countersunk, so if you glue in a dowel that's level with the > top > of the key there will be a gap or open ring around the dowel. If you > happen to be drilling near this area it makes the bit wander. If you > epoxy > in a dowel and fill in the gap with epoxy it's pretty hard to level > them > until the epoxy hardens. So you essentially have to leave the dowel > sticking out a bit and the epoxy mounded up a bit. This means a lot > of > sanding or filing after the epoxy hardens. My current modus operandi > is to > glue in a dowel that's a bit shorter than the hole and punch it in so > that > it's a little below the top of the key. I then fill in the divot with > epoxy and level with a razor blade before the epoxy sets. Other > ideas? > Does anyone fill in the entire hole with epoxy? > > > > Phi Ford > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >=20 >=20 >=20 > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives >=20 >=20 >=20 > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/c2/5c/7b/bb/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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