Bridge Disaster, Part Deux

Alan Barnard tune4u@earthlink.net
Tue, 2 Aug 2005 13:43:23 -0500


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After removing the strings, I ran thread from end to end for each string location and marked my pattern where it crossed the bridge. For those interested, my "technique" is described below. 

The second picture shows the extreme damage that excessive side bearing has done. Most of the string lift you all have spotted in the overhead pictures is due to the pressure ridges along the (laugh, snort) pin line.

One thought to fix this would be to plane the bridge down a couple of laminations (about 3/16") then plug holes, epoxy holes and any remaining damage, sand, mark pins and drill, bevel, and dag the top. Then, since the board between the apron and the soundboard was damaged, as I said, replace this board with one 1/4" thicker to raise the overall height back. This just seems faster than fabricating a cap or new bridge.

Questions: 

1. How much trouble could this get me into?

2. Should that new board—in any case—be made with a denser wood than the original, which I believe to be pine? Seems like the energy transfer would be better.

3. Is my incredible lack of rebuilding knowledge and experience showing? Never mind, that one I know.

Alan Barnard
Salem, Missouri

I tied thread through a felt punching for the top termination; put the thread through another punching (hole reamed larger) without tying it and attached it to a weight. Then I could put the punchings on the top pin (what ARE those called?) held by a clip and the hitch pin, pull the thread taut at the bottom (the weight resting on the piano bottom keeps it taut), then I use one of my indispensable tools, the 5-in-One painters tool to mark the string line across the bridge. See pix.
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