upright rebuild

[Dean May]

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Hi Rick
 
I'd highly recommend Arledge strings. 
 
Even though bridges, ribs and board look good, I would run a bead of
thin CA glue on every joint. Also, I would apply some to the base of
every bridge pin after removing the strings. The last upright I did I
also put two drops into the pin holes before driving in the tuning pins.
The new tuning pins felt really good with this treatment. 
 
Check your key bushings again. This time, don't check for side to side
wobble but for noise. Run you finger up and down the keys, like a
glissando only not actually playing the notes. It should be nice and
quiet but I suspect you'll hear hard bushing felt. I would also plan on
changing the felt on the bottom of the sticker, same reason. 
 
Dean
Dean May             cell 812.239.3359
PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272
Terre Haute IN  47802
 
-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
Behalf Of richard.ucci@att.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 7:17 AM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: upright rebuild
 
Hi Folks,
I'm about to embark on an 1920's era upright partial rebuild. Restring,
New Hammers, Jack Springs, Butt Felts, Bridle Straps,Dampers. I'm
looking for any advice on order of tasks, also, how many of you remove
the keybed and string the piano on its back? 
Do you use something to raise the piano up to a comfortable height for
stringing? I have a workbench that will hold 1,000 lbs ,also have
tilter. I've committed Reblitz to memory and also have most of the
Spurlock pamphlets. Also, has anyone tried Arlidge strings?
Soundboard ,ribs,and bridges are good , keys don't need rebushing yet.

Thanks,
Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano

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