upright rebuild

[Will Wickham]

Hi Rick,

I've restrung many uprights both with and without the keybed. My 
favored way is with the keybed out and the piano on the tilter. I sit 
on a stool and can work pretty comfortably until I get to the longest 
strings. Even then the process is pretty painless. The only times not 
to do it this way, in my opinion, are those times when taking the 
keybed out would create problems with veneer or if it is glued in 
place. I restored an early 1900's Ivers and Pond last year that had the 
keybed glued in. Unfortunately that one had to come out for some 
soundboard repair. What a mess! That's my 2 cents FWIW!
will wickham
hiding out in New York's sunny southern tier!

On Aug 16, 2005, at 8:17 AM, richard.ucci@att.net wrote:

> Hi Folks,
> I'm about to embark on an 1920's era upright partial rebuild. 
> Restring, New Hammers, Jack Springs, Butt Felts, Bridle 
> Straps,Dampers. I'm looking for any advice on order of tasks, 
> also, how many of you remove the keybed and string the piano on its 
> back?
> Do you use something to raise the piano up to a comfortable height for 
> stringing? I have a workbench that will hold 1,000 lbs ,also have 
> tilter. I've committed Reblitz to memory and also have most of the 
> Spurlock pamphlets. Also, has anyone tried Arlidge strings?
> Soundboard ,ribs,and bridges are good , keys don't need rebushing 
> yet.   
> Thanks,
> Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano