CA glue, burnt shellac.

[Alan Barnard]

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An even simpler method for felt to metal or felt to wood, IMH?O, is to use PVC-E. Works great, dries clear instead of icky-black/brown, etc. 

I know ... it's not "traditional" but shellac has no advantages I'm aware of. I don't use much stinky old hide glue either. It may be all right for production shop people but to get all that out for a once-a -year hammer-hanging? No, thanks. Come to think of it, the only glues I carry in the truck are Titebond (or Elmer's Wood), thin CA, and PVC-E.

I'm not sure which adhesive I'd use to glue MY nipples to a piano. Probably just Scotch Tape.

Alan Barnard
Salem, Missouri


----- Original Message ----- 
From: firman1 
To: Pianotech
Sent: 08/16/2005 12:56:17 PM 
Subject: Re: CA glue, burnt shellac.


I once made my own burnt shellac by burning it! I took old shellac 3-pound cut, and placed in in metal can. I then lit it with a long match...be careful as alcohol is almost invisible as it burns and the flame is hard to see. It might require lighting a couple of times as the can heats up. Soon bubbles will form around the perimeter and the shellac burn on its own and will gradually lose its solvent (alcohol). When reduced somewhat (around 50%), cover the can to extinguish the flame and let cool. The burnt shellac will become thicker as it cools. If too thin, burn again, if too thick add a little alcohol. You will soon be able to judge how far to go in the burning. Pour the cooled burnt shellac into an airtight container.
Using old shellac might affect the drying time. 
A simpler method is to buy shellac flakes and dissolve in a little alcohol until it is the right consistency. This way it dries very fast.

I use burnt shellac to seal metal nipples into wood for players, sealing pouch wells and channels, gluing felt and leather to metal, such as buckskin to metal lever ends or felt to metal guides, etc.

Berley
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