Baldwin Designs, etc. / Ron N.

[David Love]

I do use Locktite as well as the washer, though the last time I assembled
one of these I couldn't find the Locktite so I ended up using some CA glue.
Seemed to work fine.  

I am curious as to what people do when the original hole is too large.  You
have to plug it, of course, and I suppose I would just cut a bunch of plugs
out of pinblock material and stack them into the hole.  But after drilling
the new hole for the socket screw, it would seem to make sense to tap the
hole prior to trying to screw in the new socket screw.  The proximity to the
rim presents a challenge for both in terms of speed.  The last time I
installed these, without having to plug, I ended up taking a hacksaw to an
allen wrench of appropriate dimension and chucking it into a brace which
speeded up the process a bit (better than turning 12 or so screws in with a
small allen wrench.  Other suggestions on how to deal with this would be
appreciated.  

David Love
davidlovepianos@comcast.net 

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Ron Nossaman
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 2:01 PM
To: Pianotech
Subject: Re: Baldwin Designs, etc. / Ron N.

> Would you be kind enough to show us your plate
> suspension system?  I would be very interested to see
> what you came up with.
> 
> Vladan


Looking for a better way to suspend plates, that could be adjusted 
from on top without pulling the plate again, I conjured up a system. 
I used all thread, cut a slot in the top, and a lock washer under 
the plate, with an acorn nut on top. It worked great. I mentioned my 
shiny new invention to Del, and he recommended socket head set 
screws like he was using, instead of slotting all thread. So much 
for shiny new inventions... So now I'm using a 3/16" NC (16tpi) 
socket head set screw 4" long. A nylon insert lock washer goes on it 
to support the plate underneath, and it is driven into the rim at 
the old plate bolt locations (or the relocated ones, as the case may 
be). The plate is lowered onto the bolts, sitting on the lock nuts. 
Height is adjusted via the hex sockets in the top ends of the 
screws, and an acorn nut screws on to hold everything when you're 
done. Plate height can be adjusted later even under full string 
tension if necessary. The only problem I've had is an occasional 
lock nut that doesn't want to stay put as firmly as I'd like. A 
washer between lock nut and plate as David Love suggested to me 
might take care of that annoyance.

Ron N