Baldwin concertmaster

[Dean May]

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If it is similar to the PianoDisc you want to make sure that the
solenoid stops against its own stop, not against any stop in the piano's
trapwork. On PianoDisc the lift is adjusted first. Don't give it any
more than is required so that the bottom of the bicord is just below the
top of the string. You want very minimal lift. Then you adjust the stop
in the trapwork just past that point so the pedal will lift the dampers
a little more than the solenoid. 
 
After setting the solenoid lift you set the lost motion. Again you want
very minimal lost motion, or none. These two minimal settings will give
you the least travel on the solenoid plunger possible and the least
noise. 
 
On PianoDisc I have installed very weak springs under the pedal to make
it move when the solenoid activates. 
 
Dean
Dean May             cell 812.239.3359
PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272
Terre Haute IN  47802
 
-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
Behalf Of Roy
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 8:40 AM
To: Pianotech
Subject: RE: Baldwin concertmaster
 
Marcel:
 
While a test box is helpful, you can probably fix the problem without
it.    The goal  is to get as little throw as possible in the pedal
solenoid.   The less the pedal solenoid moves, the less noise there will
be.  Try to set it so that the dampers lift just enough to work.  It's a
balancing act between the heights of the pedal rod, the damper rod, and
the pedal solenoid.   Depending on how the installation was done, you
may or may not have room to move the solenoid up high enough. Moving the
solenoid up higher means that it will bottom out sooner, and thus not
travel as far.  It has to travel far enough to lift the dampers
slightly, and that's all.
 
Baldwin wanted the pedal to move when the pedal solenoid was engaged.
Usually there was a pin at the top of the pedal rod, which fit into a
rubber grommet on the damper lever.  When the damper lever would move,
it would lift the pedal rod and move the pedal.  If your customer
doesn't care whether the pedal moves, you can seperate the rod from the
lever and eliminate a source of noise.  This would require cutting or
otherwise removing the pin from the top of the pedal rod, and maybe
adding some felt or leather.
 
Sometimes the problem is the pedal solenoid itself.  If  the shaft of
the plunger fits too loosely into the solenoid, it will rattle.  In this
case, the solution is to replace the solenoid.
 
And yes, it could be a calibration problem.  But if it is set up wrong,
calibration won't help.
 
Another option is to simply disconnect the pedal solenoid.  The player
will go into "magic pedal mode".  This is the system default. 
 
Good luck,
Roy Peters, RPT
Cincinnati, Ohio

-----Original Message----- 
From: Marcel Carey 
Sent: Aug 24, 2005 12:28 PM 
To: Pianotech 
Subject: RE: Baldwin concertmaster 
Ric,
 
What is a pianomation test box?
 
Marcel
-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On
Behalf Of Ric Thompson
Sent: August 24, 2005 12:18 PM
To: Pianotech
Subject: Re: Baldwin concertmaster
Will need a Pianomation Test Box to fix the problem
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Marcel <mailto:mcpiano@videotron.ca>  Carey 
To: pianotech <mailto:pianotech@ptg.org>  
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:13 AM
Subject: Baldwin concertmaster
 
Hello List & friends,

I'm stuck with a Baldwin ConcertMaster (Samick 173). The loud pedal
solenoid makes a lot of noise. Is there a easy way to reduce the
voltage or regulate this solenoid? Do any of you have tech info as far
as the (I think pianodisk)player adjustments and regulation? I've
corrected the warped keys and the completely erratic key leading and
I'm now stalled with the electronics.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Marcel

Marcel Carey
2852 Dussault
Rock Forest  QC
J1N 2V6
(819) 564-0447
mcpiano@videotron.ca


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