To Ream or Not to Ream?

John Ross jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
Thu, 25 Aug 2005 22:46:50 -0300


The twisted wire, didn't allow for a good hold.
Also the instructions in the Pianotek catalogue, specify, use by hand.
If there was a brush with a solid shaft, well yes, a drill on slow speed 
could work.
Unfortunately, I bought the one, with the twisted wire main shaft, assuming 
it would work.
You know the kind, something like a robust bottle brush.
I suppose one from a gun cleaning kit would work. But then again, you would 
still have the problem, of reversing the bristle direction, when removing, 
unless it takes well to spinning, as you pull.
I just wasn't willing to spend more money, on a system, that I couldn't get 
to work. I should have realized that something cheap wouldn't work, it was 
only $5.50.
I just thought that the Company that sold it had investigated it working.
Like I say, it could have been the way, I was doing it.
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dean May" <deanmay@pianorebuilders.com>
To: "'Pianotech'" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 10:29 PM
Subject: RE: To Ream or Not to Ream?


> Seems like if you were to chuck it up and spin it in a slow cordless
> drill you should be able to remove it while it is spinning.
>
> Dean
> Dean May             cell 812.239.3359
> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272
> Terre Haute IN  47802
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org] On
> Behalf Of John Ross
> Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 7:58 PM
> To: Pianotech
> Subject: Re: To Ream or Not to Ream?
>
> I did try the brush thing, but I did not have much success.
> The brush I had was a twisted wire type of shaft, and the handle, if it
> had
> one, was not a secure one. I don't remember if it had one, it was a long
>
> time ago.
> Anyway, I twisted it and got the brush in the pin hole, but I couldn't
> get
> it out, without a lot of trouble. Reason being the bristles were
> pointing
> out of the hole, and dug in, when I tried to remove it. Almost like some
>
> animals teeth, the grab, and you have to rip to get free.
> If it originally had a handle, it pulled off, when trying to remove the
> brush. It was the one from Pianotek TPB-1.
> I never did get it to work right. Mind you, my methodology, might have
> been
> wrong. But how can I be wrong, you push it in, and then pull out.
> Except, it
> wouldn't come out.
> John M. Ross
> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "gordon stelter" <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 7:52 PM
> Subject: Re: To Ream or Not to Ream?
>
>
>> Like I said ( and nobody responded ): How is this
>> superior to just running a wire brush in and out a few
>> times, to knock off glaze, and roughen the wood a bit
>> ?
>>     Thump
>>
>>
>> --- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> I wouldn't recommend using a drill.
>>> I use a bit holding attachment that fits into a
>>> power screwdriver/screwdriver, and just turn by
>>> hand.
>>> A drill is hard to control, and ends up being too
>>> aggressive.
>>> That is my take.
>>> Others may have a method that they find works
>>> better.
>>> I would like to hear of any suggestions, regarding
>>> the use of the fluted reamers, for use on pinblocks.
>>> John M. Ross
>>> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
>>> jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
>>>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>   From: Pierre Gevaert
>>>   To: Pianotech
>>>   Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 1:00 PM
>>>   Subject: Re: To Ream or Not to Ream?
>>>
>>>
>>>   Hi,
>>>
>>>   Thanks for the reply concerning the fluted
>>> reamers.
>>>   Concerning these reamers do some of you have some
>>> experience to share? I was wondering what kind of
>>> drill should be used and what would be a good
>>> feed-rate.
>>>
>>>   Thanks,
>>>
>>>   Pierre
>>>     ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>     From: John Ross
>>>     To: Pianotech
>>>     Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 9:07 PM
>>>     Subject: Re: To Ream or Not to Ream?
>>>
>>>
>>>     I got my fluted reamers from Pianotek. They have
>>> six sizes from .266" to.295", they are 6" long and
>>> the flute is 1 1/2".
>>>     I do find them better, but you have to take it
>>> slow.
>>>     John M. Ross
>>>     Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
>>>     jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
>>>       ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>       From: Pierre Gevaert
>>>       To: Pianotech
>>>       Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:02 PM
>>>       Subject: Re: To Ream or Not to Ream?
>>>
>>>
>>>       Hi,
>>>
>>>       And what about those fluted reamers mentionned
>>> in the Reblitz? I've tried to find these for a long
>>> time now but without succes. As I never heared
>>> anyone else speaking about these I suppose it's not
>>> that good to use?
>>>
>>>
>>>       Pierre Gevaert
>>>
>>>       Belgium
>>>         ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>         From: John Ross
>>>         To: pianotech
>>>         Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:24 PM
>>>         Subject: To Ream or Not to Ream?
>>>
>>>
>>>         I normally used to ream, before repining.
>>>         However on this latest piano, the pins were
>>> tight on removal. Sorry, I forgot to take a torque
>>> measurement.
>>>         I normally just go up one size, unless they
>>> are really loose.
>>>         I am tempted to just go up the one size, and
>>> not ream. I do use pin driving fluid.
>>>
>>>         I would like to be reminded of the pros, and
>>> cons of each procedure.
>>>
>>>         It is a good quality upright, a Heintzman,
>>> with what they call an Agraffe Bridge, patented in
>>> 1895. It is the one with the three holes drilled
>>> through the plate, aligning the strings.
>>>
>>>         It had no 1/2 sizes of strings. I am adding
>>> a few that seem to improve the inharmonicity,
>>> according to PSCALE.
>>>
>>>         John M. Ross
>>>         Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
>>>         jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
>>>
>>
>>
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