Ignorance is bliss, and costly.

[tom driscoll]

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  Greetings to the list,
       I'm afraid I have woefully underestimated the time required to =
replace a set of hammer spring loops (or cords).  On a Yamaha circa 1972 =
upright.  Schwander type action.  After bringing the action to my =
workshop it took me 10 minutes to replace one string loop.  Evidently =
this is a 2 day job and I figured about 3 hours.
       Is there a short cut?  Would I be better off to just order a new =
set of hammer flgs. and repin the whole darn thing?  I am probably =
making it harder than it really is.

  Charles Cron
  =20
      Charles,
      This is a much discussed topic on the list.From the ptg home page =
there is a link to the pianotech archives . The search option will =
direct you to postings on most any topic
      Best wishes,
          Tom Driscoll RPT
         =20
      >From the archives with editing:

  I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for

  > Replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in =
Japan,


  > (Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the =


  > risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the=20

  > pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are

  not

  > worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old

  and

  > If not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these =
criteria.=20

  > With the action in the piano I space hammers tightening the hammer

  flange screws.=20

        Now with the action on the bench and in the cradle,I  tighten =
all
  remaining screws, reshape hammers

  > and blow out all debris.

        Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in

  > this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the =


  > butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the=20

  > bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire. (That

  was

  > the tip from our Japanese friend) Now the flanges are exposed for=20

  > removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of acetone on =


  > the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and slot with=20

  > the chisel point of a small spade drill bit. ( By hand -not chucked =
in


  > the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go. Finish =
the


  > slot cleanout with a small brass suede brush, and

  compressed air or vac.

        (I found that the action centers are unchanged by any acetone =
that
  migrates to the bushing)

  >     Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can =
get
  the=20

  > cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not=20

  > available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff) around an old =
#88=20

  > key top and slice down the middle. Either way works, but the idea is

  to get 88

  > cords cut to exact length. Now glue one side in the slot -I use

  > titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a =
small=20

  > screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the

  flange.

  > By the time you get all 88 done the glue will be set. Go back and =
glue


  > the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the =
springs

  in

  > the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done. Two hours max and=20

  > less with practice.

  >     The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but

  > it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the =
way.

  > hammer spacing will not change, the old flanges are already

  > Dimensionally stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as

  > soon.=20

  >     If this is a worn action with loose pinning then flange

  > replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt

  > plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less

  > clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few of these and

  > almost all have the butt plate style. =20

  >     ` Tom Driscoll

  >=20

  >                      =20

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