---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment Hi Avery, >A question for you rebuilder types: > >I guess basically it's what is the procedure,=20 >when restringing, to ensure the plate >horn is snug? Here's what happened: > >My apprentice had restrung the plain wire=20 >section of a Yamaha G3. To save a little >time, I'd pulled up the middle strings for him=20 >with my SAT before he arrived (whole >step flat) and then he was in the process of pulling in the outside strings= =2E > >I happened to be standing on the bass side and=20 >noticed a piece of gold-painted metal >lying on the keybed. A little quick looking and=20 >we discovered it was a wedge between >the horn and the belly (is that what that area's=20 >called?). Well, it wouldn't go in >but just a little, so I had him start lowering=20 >tension, starting at the bottom of the >tenor section. After several notes, the wedge=20 >fell out, so I knocked it up again as >far as it would go. Had to remove the sostenuto=20 >rod to give some "banging" clearance. >Then, same procedure done again and once more=20 >the wedge fell out. We continued this >until the wedge was almost all the way in.=20 >Finally, it went all the way up to where >it'd been originally. Plate screws had been=20 >tightened, BTW. I'm assuming everything is >OK now. No plate cracks, etc. :-) > >I've never had this happen before and am=20 >wondering why it did. Obviously, the plate=20 >moved/flexed a little for this to have happened.=20 >I'd never seen a wedge like this >before, so didn't think to check it. I don't=20 >know exactly when it fell out: while >unstringing, pounding in the pins when=20 >restringing, while pulling up the pitch? > >Any ideas on what I should have done to prevent this from happening? There is always a risk of a horn wedge falling=20 out when the pins are pounded in when=20 re-stringing. The horn has become a rather standard item in=20 contemporary grand piano design. Not all grands=20 have a plate horn, eg. KG series Kawai and=20 B=F6sendorfer grands. However, I believe the horn=20 is a useful way of the improving the structural=20 rigidity of the case/plate assembly. It can=20 slightly improve tuning stability, and may also=20 help the sustaining qualities of an instrument=20 (although the sound board design is by far the=20 most important factor for sustain). While most=20 plates will be capable of withstanding the string=20 tension at pitch, even when the wedge has either=20 been left out or has fallen out during=20 re-stringing, there may be a small risk of some=20 of the lighter plates sustaining damage. As a general practice, it is a good idea to use=20 tape to hold the wedge in place until sufficient=20 string tension has been applied to hold it. When=20 the wedge is missing and string tension has been=20 applied, it isn't necessary to completely release=20 all string tension before driving the wedge home.=20 Just the minimum tension release required to=20 drive the wedge home will be OK. The plate and=20 pinblock does flex down under tension if the=20 wedge isn't in place, but the flexure will=20 reverse once the wedge is replaced. I find this design tendency to use just one horn,=20 positioning it at the bass/treble break, along=20 with most if not all of the longitudinal back=20 beams, which also meet at what some magically=20 (and fictitiously) call the 'Tone collector', to=20 be quite a strange design practice/custom. After=20 all, when one considers the belly of a grand=20 piano and the characteristics that we should be=20 aiming for, it is the treble areas where we=20 require the greatest stiffness and rigidity of=20 design, not down in the tenor area. So the=20 traditional placement of the plate to belly=20 bracing might be better placed at the next higher=20 string section break. With our current Overs 225 piano, it has a=20 traditional cast horn at the bass/treble break.=20 But we also fit additional braces (2) to the top=20 two treble string section breaks. For the Kawi=20 KG5 piano we recently remanufactured and re-named=20 Overs - Kawai, we fitted two additional struts,=20 one at the bass/treble break (since there was no=20 horn in the original design) and one at the next=20 higher break (where the capo section starts). An=20 image of the higher strut can be found at; http://members.optusnet.com.au/ronovers/overskawai6.jpg The diameter of the strut is 0.5" (12.7 mm), and=20 the custom-made threaded fitting has a 1/2"=20 thread with 70 mm of thread length in the belly=20 rail. A hardwood block is glued in behind the=20 belly rail sound board support strip, before the=20 sound board is fitted, to provide sufficient wood=20 depth for the 70 mm of thread to be fully engaged=20 with the belly. I'm a big fan of these plate to belly rail=20 struts. This latest version is quick to make and=20 I think they really help to stiffen the plate=20 against downward flexure at the pin-block area=20 when its subjected to string tension. They must=20 be helping to keep the entire piano stable. We've=20 found that pianos fitted with these struts seem=20 to exhibit improved tuning stability. > Any other comments, We've all been there Avery. You are not alone. Best, Ron O. -- OVERS PIANOS - SYDNEY Grand Piano Manufacturers _______________________ Web http://overspianos.com.au mailto:ron@overspianos.com.au _______________________ ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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