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Warren and List
- here's another odd problem to do with dampers and hammers not =
working... unscrew the damper (this is an upright?) and look at the =
damper tail felt. I have found the damper spoon so rough that it has =
gauged out a pit in the tail felt and stopped the lever from returning! =
A quickie fix is to remove that felt and turn it end-for-end then reglue =
it. That's for in the field work where you haven't got felt to hand of =
the right thickness/density whatever.
Regards
Michael G.(UK)
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Warren Fisher=20
To: Pianotech=20
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: butt springs
Richard,
I wouldn't advise doing it that way. I don't think the rail screws =
are removable inside the piano. There is too little clearance between =
the screw head and the hammer rail. You may get them out, but I doubt =
you could get them back in. Sometimes you have to remove the hammer =
rail to get enough clearance. Also you have a good possibility of =
messing up the damper adjustment getting the rail out. You really don't =
want to do that.
Springs are not the only thing that will cause a key not to work. You =
will never know what is causing the problem unless you remove the action =
and inspect everything. I have replaced a spring and then found the =
flanges seized up with moisture.=20
You should charge a substantial fee, at least one hour, just for =
removal and replacement of the drop action. This charge should not =
include any work and should be collected whether you work on the action =
or not. Don't sell yourself short.
Take the action to the shop and put it in a cradle so that all the =
parts are accessable.
Warren Fisher- Navy Retired - Slidell, Louisiana=20
----- Original Message -----=20
From:=20
To: Pianotech
Sent: 7/22/2005 7:36:12 AM=20
Subject: Re: butt springs
But I can pull the rail and install springs right?
-------------- Original message from Andrew and Rebeca Anderson =
<anrebe@sbcglobal.net>: --------------=20
This is the Whitney Spinet right? I've worked on one of those. =
Do not plan on adding anything to the spring rail. Tolerances are very =
close there. They have felt on it because the hammer shanks will check =
against it on a firm blow.
AMHIK,
Andrew
At 07:43 AM 7/21/2005, you wrote:
Thanks Terry,
Actually, I did not want to pull the action on this turkey. I =
was toying with the idea of installing springs on a thin strip of wood =
and then glueing it in place.
-------------- Original message from "Farrell" =
<mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>: --------------=20
Alan, that was cruel and uncalled for. Whitney, like all piano =
manufacturers space the butt springs one per butt! (It's the butts that =
are randomly spaced!) ;-)
=20
That's all you get Rick until you give us more information! R =
U replacing the spring rail for some reason? Or just the springs. =
Perhaps this is the first time you have replaced this type of spring? If =
so, you may just not be aware that the springs are set into little holes =
in the spring rail - so no spacing efforts are needed - just remove old =
springs and replace with new ones in original holes. (You need to soak =
the felt to soften and remove the hide glue...... oh no - was a Whitney =
glued up with hide glue or will it be some ookey white crud.....?????)
=20
No doubt there is tons of info in the archives describing this =
job. I know there is good stuff in the PTG reprint articles - that's =
what I used the first time I did that job.
=20
Terry Farrell
=20
Whitney spinet, eh? Just use the same random spacing the =
factory used.... oh, wait, that was cruel.
=20
More seriously: Are these on a damper rebound rail in the =
usual configuration? Is the rail still usable?
=20
Actually, I guess I don't really understand your question =
... a little more detail, please ...
=20
Alan Barnard
Salem, Missouri
Is there a standard distance for spacing hammer butt =
springs? I'm thinking of doing a gang replacement on a Whitney spinet .
=20
Thanks,
Rick Ucci/Ucci Piano
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