back problems

Greg Newell gnewell@ameritech.net
Tue, 21 Jun 2005 19:25:04 -0400


Ron,
         Thank you for this post. It's the first that addressed the 
question at hand. Had I missed a previous post of yours on this topic? Your 
3 sentence makes me think something unintended got trashed accidentally. I 
will likely just fill the remaining crack as you've said.

best,
Greg



At 05:18 PM 6/21/2005, you wrote:
>>  As I progressed into the bass region I started hearing funny sounds and 
>> then it let go right where I had glued it.
>
>Always bolt. There's no way you're going to get a glue joint (especially 
>one previously contaminated by the original glue joint that DIDN'T HOLD) 
>to hold without hardware. As I've said before - it's the bolts that hold 
>the repair together, not the glue.
>
>
>>Before catching my airplane I ordered 6" flat head 5/16" machine screws 
>>from McMaster - Carr in order to drill and bolt all the way through and 
>>put washers and nuts out the back side.
>
>Carriage bolts, and washers with holes big enough to fit around the square 
>part of the bolt shank. BIG footprint! Heap tough to suck into the wood of 
>the back with screw pressure.
>
>
>>I just finished doing that and can't seem to close the gap all the way.
>
>You probably can't at this point. Try it with the C clamp and see if it's 
>even possible. It doesn't matter what kind of glue you put in there now, 
>if it ever did. The crack is lined with fresh hide glue, so the holding 
>power is limited to the bond between fresh hide clue and old hide glue, or 
>fresh hide glue and whatever you use this time. Still, the bolts are what 
>counts, so it really isn't much of a concern.
>
>The pictures in the attachment are
>>what it looks like now. Any thoughts? Would it be completely wrong to 
>>drill a new hole in the raised trim of the plate? Just one would draw it 
>>together I'd bet but it seems a little dicey to drill there.
>
>I wouldn't drill directly through that raised perimeter (flange), but I'd 
>go just under it. If the gap doesn't close all the way, fill it with 
>something that cures hard to hide it, and move on. The repair will be a 
>good one, and will outlast the rest of the piano.
>
>Ron N
>_______________________________________________
>pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives

Greg Newell
Greg's piano Forté
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net 



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