Hammer sanding ,machne

[Joe And Penny Goss]

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Hi David, I use stressed emery paper.
Just recently made a jig to stress the cloth. I was doing the stress =
with a pencil or screwdriver blade but was loosing too much grit in the =
process.
The cloth has to much starch { glue } and is too stiff to do the job on =
the sholders unless one stresses the cloth so that it will lay on the =
hammer
easily.=20
The stressing makes the cloth curl in the oppisite direction from what =
it comes out of the box.
The 1" cloth is easy to do, but the 2" stuff is quite difficult to pull =
through the jig.
Carl also stresses the cloth that we use on the electric shaper.
Joe Goss RPT
Mother Goose Tools
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: David Ilvedson=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 3:26 PM
  Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne


  The tool uses emory cloth?   I've never tried it...I use garnet with =
packing tape backing...

  David I.




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-----
  Original message
  From: "Joe And Penny Goss"=20
  To: Pianotech=20
  Received: 9/6/2005 8:55:46 AM
  Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne


  Hi Dale,
   The tenor of your post indicates that you are working on grands. The =
beauty of the shoeshine methods is that it will work on either without =
having to change methods or tools used to get the same results. When I =
say shoe shine I am referring to the motion of the rag used to shine =
shoes.
  While the rag bends to conform to the different shapes of the shoe, it =
is not able to reach down into divots in the area being worked on,
  The emery cloth takes advantage of this fact as it shreds the felt off =
the high parts of the hammer, first the sides and then the strike point.
  Joe Goss RPT
  Mother Goose Tools
  imatunr@srvinet.com
  www.mothergoosetools.com
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Erwinspiano@aol.com=20
    To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
    Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 8:45 AM
    Subject: Re: Hammer sanding ,machne


       Carl -- David I.
      After using many forms of electric sanding devices I don't see how =
I can take a un -shaped set of new hammers & effeciently design a  =
hammer shape with this tool. Perhaps that's not what it's use is for. I =
currently use a small sand cat  belt sander & more recently  a Makita =
hand held belt sander with a 1 inch wide by 18" belt. It's a bit awkward =
& dont' recommend it for anything but gang filing when shaping new  =
hammers held in a gang clampm in  a vise with plenty of clearance.
      I do however use the makita on hung hammers when trying to do huge =
amounts of shape redesign & felt removal  but I just do the rough work =
with the tools & finish with 80 thru 400 grit paper. Short of that the =
foredom works bset for this particular job as one can focus all the =
attention to shape on one side then the other & lastly the top.
      my guess is that Joe's tool is extremely effective for the =
applications it was designed for such as upright actions.... Right Joe? =
Or splain it further to dense heads like me. Maybe I need one
      Just my 2 cents.
      Dale
      Carl,

      so it goes back and forth...how do you get a particular shape?   =
I'm think of a worn hammer where I want to bring the shoulders down and =
not the top.  How is that accomplished?

      David I.

      David, just push the sander fore and aft to sand only on side of =
the hammer.  Press down to sand the top.  Rotate the sander and push =
side to side to clear waste felt.  You need to do this since if you =
don't the felt will clog the paper and stop working.  Fifty or sixty =
grit is good for speedily removing felt.  For smaller hammers I usually =
squeeze the blades with thumb and index finger to sand only the sides.  =
Remember that this tool is basically roughing it in.  As Nick Gravagne =
said in a class "We're just shoveling dirt".  Final shaping and squaring =
is done using standard paddles or your favorite procedure.

      Carl Meyer PTG assoc
      Santa Clara, Ca.



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