Thanks Ric, I might take you up off line...so I'm looking at my "Little Stanwood Primer Book" at Appendix A...touch weight parameters table. Not sure what the 3-2-1 compared to the 4-3-2 means other than more lead in the keys? The 4-3-2 shows my 5.7 will get me in SW8 or 9 curve..right? I'm going through the measuring again and doing the partial sample set this time...just to make sure what I've got. I've gone over the friction issues and now #16 is way different...D=43 U=17...too much lead for that key...5 3/8" leads...BW is 30...way to low...so if I can get it up to D=55 and U=23, I'll have BW=38... You mentioned getting my BW down and I think I understand that now. Too much downweight and too much upweight...in general...heavier hammers will take care of some of that and FW changes will do the rest...? I think... David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 ----- Original message ---------------------------------------- From: "Ric Brekne" <ricbrek at broadpark.no> To: pianotech at ptg.org Received: 8/7/2006 3:55:21 PM Subject: bechstein >Hi David > >I mean that with a 5.7 ratio you could easily handle a bit heavier >hammers. You see, for a specified 38 BW a 5.7 ratio matches very well >with a top medium strikeweight curve. This assumes a 9 gram WBW ... ie. >(KR * WRW). Yours is closer to 10 but thats not enough to make a big >enough difference to worry about for now. With these givens (ratio, >wbw, and BW) you can match Strike weights to Front weights and the trick >is to end up at or below what is recommended as maximums for FW's. What >actually should be maximums for FW's gets a bit subjective... but for >the sake of learning your Stanwood ropes just accept his table of >maximums. With a 5.7 ratio, 38 gram BW spec, 10 gram WBW and going all >the way to the maximum FW's you can still handle a top medium curve >nicely. Heavier hammers then that will require too much FW or >combination of FW and assist springs. Essentially... you dont have >enough levearge to use a heavier SW curve then top mediums with these specs. >Takes a bit of practice... but if you work with Stanwoods formula and >his charts very much eventually becomes clear enough. Alternatively... >you can do as many will suggest and go with a lower SW curve... such as >your exisiting one. That will allow you to counter balance with FW's >well below the suggested maximums and still get a reasonably low BW.. 38 >for example. This is attractive to those amoung us who believe much >lower mass levels in the keys is a desirable. >One immediatly will move into a more complicated series of questions >about mass levels in keys and its effect on play... but at your stage I >would suggest getting the basics of Stanwoods Balance methodology down >and understood. In its simplest form, I like to think of his method as a >very precise way of doing the weigh off process... one that utilizes >very even SW values key to key as a starting point. Learn how to >balance a SW curve with an existing ratio first... then move on to >bigger and better things if you get my meaning. >I can offer you a walk through with your action off list if you like, >but only as much as Stanwoods patent allows for. Essentially that means >you can not install FW's figured with his balance equation. You can >figure them for the sake of learning... but you will have to install >FW's established a different way. And there are some good alternatives >given an even SW curve and a known ratio as a starting point. >Cheers >RicB >New parts will help the friction problems. I'm still foggy on this >whole thing...you say the 5.7 ration is doable but I could go up a >notch...that means 5.8 or 5.6? I'm looking at a 1/4 or 1/2 medium >hammer weight curve, right? Do I follow the hammer curve before I hang >the hammers...HW...seems easier without the shank in the way? I have >been reading through the archives and I feel like Terry Farrell back in >2002 when he was trying to learn this stuff... >David Ilvedson, RPT >Pacifica, CA 94044
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