Ron writes >>A piano is still not a violin, and a piano soundboard is still not carved to it's crowned shape. Thus, this comparison is still not a valid one now matter how many times it's presented.<, Then compare the flat-top Martin guitar of 1945 with a new one. It is a solid spruce panel, butt-jointed across a set of ribs, subjected to compression and tension. There is nothing in the older spruce that demonstrates deterioration. In fact, it seems, and the market among the real experts supports, that the older wood has superior tonal qualities that the new wood does not. >>And you've never seen a shot 80 year old bridge cap, or did maple get an exemption too, but only in certain special bridge caps?< I have seen 80 year old bridge caps that were shot, but I have seen more of them that were intact. The cheaper the piano, it seems the higher the incident of bad caps, (Knabe seems to be an exception). > How is it that my 1920 Steinway M has virtually no > false-beating strings, no cracks behind the bridge pins, etc. and this 2001 D > has at least 7 un-tunable unisons due to poor pin termination. >>Based on that extensive cross section, it surely has to be the superior wood of 80 years ago. There could be no other possibility. < (Saracasm not withstanding) I personally own 7 Steinways of older vintage, and every single one of them has less false beating strings than any new one I have seen in the last few years. I also maintain dozens of older pianos and they correlate with this. In fact, after 30 years of taking care of grand pianos, I am going to have to consider my experience "extensive", and I have seen nothing that tells me high quality wood, properly used, deteriorates. >>So why aren't you recovering knuckles and re-bushing those old shanks instead of replacing them? How about bushing, leathering, and felting the old wippens while you're at it? << Time is money, I am not working as a conservator at a museum. The difference in quality of wood is insufficient to justify the additional time in rebuilding the parts. >>You're apparently throwing out superior wood and replacing it with inferior. How those new inferior maple shanks will work better than those better quality originals, which could have deteriorated to the point where new would be better, even though the bridge cap didn't, is something I doubt I'll ever connect without hurting myself. << The efficacy of replacement of action parts has nothing to do with the wood. In the late '70's, when there was a dearth of parts for rebuilders, I rebushed, reclothed, repinned, and resprung quite a few actions. Those pianos are still in professional use today, and the age of the wood is no handicap, at all. > I believe that a very fine soundboard could be made with old spruce > reattached to new ribs. >>Almost certainly, depending on your construction method. But why would you if that nice dry brittle soundboard still produces such fine response?>> Ron, I don't see the logic in this question. Given that the soundboard is an assembly, it is hard to blame the loss of tone on one simple component. I don't think that the spruce is supporting anything, but the ribs can certainly distort under extended load. It seems to me that you are relying on straw man caricatures to support a preconceived view that old wood is inferior wood. My experience is something different. Regards, Ed Foote RPT http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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