Key Button Installation

[Carl Meyer]

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With the key in the frame (neighboring keys removed) place a half by =
half strip of wood or I use a half by half steel angle strip under the =
front of the keys so that the key is resting on its bottom front =
surface.  The top of the key is now flat parallel to the floor.  Glue =
the button on so that the slot is perpendicular to the front and the =
balance rail pin is a bit to the rear of the center.  I could see a =
possible need to bend the pin if things don't line up right.

Buttons aside, propping up the front of the keys like that gives an =
opportunity to bend balance rail pins to straighten up leaning key tops =
as well as bending front rail pins to give good key spacing.  That is =
part of my key leveling routine.

Carl Meyer PTG assoc
Santa Clara, Ca.




----- Original Message -----=20
  From: David Ilvedson=20
  To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
  Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 11:02 AM
  Subject: Re: Key Button Installation



  Carl,

  How did you locate the key button position?

  David Ilvedson, RPT
  Pacifica, California





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-----
  Original message
  From: "Carl Meyer"=20
  To: spalding48@earthlink.net, "Pianotech List"=20
  Received: 2/5/2006 10:33:12 AM
  Subject: Re: Key Button Installation


  Here is a picture of a one inch sander with a clamped board behind =
using short ends of angle brackets to serve as a stop.  Adjust position =
with a straight edge against the belt and clamp with a couple of squeeze =
clamps.

  Now the second picture shows how you can just zip off the overhang =
without taking a bunch of wood off the key.  First time I tried this =
without the stop, the dam key almost disappeared.  Use 35 or 50 grit =
belts.  Works fast.

  Carl Meyer PTG assoc
  Santa Clara, Ca.


  ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: Michael Spalding=20
    To: Pianotech List=20
    Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 3:13 AM
    Subject: RE: Key Button Installation


    Terry,

    David Betts gave a class on this (in Nashville?).    Can't find the =
handout.   For each section of keys, cut the new buttons to the average =
angle and wider than the key.  Installation is in the keyframe in two =
batches,  every other key so you have clearance in between.   Or three =
batches, if you want to do the blacks separate from the whites.  Keys =
resting on wooden bars so they are level and at the right height.   May =
have to remove front punchings.  Straight edge on top of keys along =
front of buttons for alignment, both angular and front-to-back.  =
Side-to-side alignment is provided by the balance rail pin.  No clamps =
required:  Tite-bond, hold in place for count of 7, move on.   When =
fully cured, trim flush to key with band saw, finish with sandpaper =
block.  2 hours sounds optimistic, would you settle for 4 to 5?  Clear =
as mud??

    Mike=20


      ----- Original Message -----=20
      From: Farrell=20
      To: pianotech@ptg.org
      Sent: 2/4/2006 10:02:19 PM=20
      Subject: Key Button Installation


      I need to install new key buttons on 88 keys. Never done it =
before. I have the Journals on CD, but have never been able to do a =
search on them. I found an old article by Fern Henry that described a =
very simple method/jig to do this task. The few articles I have found =
suggest that many techs prefer to replace button rather than rebush and =
complete the task in about two hours. In two hours, following a modified =
Fern Henry method, I have eight keys done. I've got 80 to go. At this =
pace it will take me the better part of a week to install a set of key =
buttons. Is anyone aware of a good article in the PTG Journal that =
describes the procedure? I see the Jaras Key Button jig in the Schaff =
catalog - anyone have an opinion on that? Anyone got any other =
favorite/excellent-result/fast method of replacing key buttons?

      Thanks for any input.

      Terry Farrell
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