Hey Clark
What you describe I find myself undoing routinely on jobs that come in
for a board. The statement is made that the action has been rebuilt but it
doesn't play well....it's heavy...fill in the blanks. A well meaning person
simply made a decision without any action protocol information & chose the
original knuckle placement parts, Installed too heavy a hammer, which compounded
original poor key leverages etc.
Whenever you find short dip & long blow the action ration is high. In
this case probably 6.5 or more. When initial tear down is first contemplated, a
quick regulation of one note will give you this first clue as to action
ratio problems. 5 minutes saves countless hours of grief. AMHIK!
A 17 mm knuckle often solves much of this leverage problem or gets it
headed in the right direction, but also a capstan move is also needed to get the
leverage into the ballpark.
I wonder if there is enough wood left in the keys to salvage or if the
rations are so whacked that a new key set is in order any way.
Stanwood made simple for me is as follows.
I have a action ration finder which is simply a small 3 inch long by 1/2
inch square block of maple that has a tapered 6 mm shoe on the bottom & a 1/2
ich lead in the top to hold down the key. With three level white keys & three
level hammers I can set this gauge on the keys & in 5 seconds measure the
amount of hammer travel in mm , then divide by six & I have an action ration
number that is close enough to tell me which way I need to go with the parts
choice, capstan move & hammer weight. A depth gauge placed at the top of the
hammer which moved upward & the bottom of the ruler in the gauge hit both
hammer tops simultaneaously. ie say 32 mm is a 5.33 action ration which is great.
& 36mm would be 6 which is going to have the problems you describe.
Hope this helps
I'll post a pic. later if you wish.......off to
church.............................seeyalaterbye
Dale
Hi, All! I have been dealing with a S&S B that I found with up to 9 leads
in some of the low tenor keys. All the parts had been replaced with Renner to
get rid of the Teflon flanges, but it was heavy, sluggish, and just a chore
to play for long. I am not all that familiar with the Stanwood protocols,
but as time goes on, the concept gets more and more attractive. What I found,
was that I had to shorten the dip, lengthen the blow, to get it less
laborious to play. So, what I suspect , is that the capstan placement is incorrect
for the parts used, or was incorrect from the start? They also had the damper
timing late to try to make it feel lighter, so late that the hammer almost
hit the strings before it lifted.
Ric, your comments on the more creative combinations of blow, dip, etc
hit a chord with me on this beast.
There were too many leads in from the factory, and you could tell be
looking that some more were added with the new parts, as they did not look
factory at all, so the problems just got worse, evidently with the parts
replacement.
Clark A. Sprague, RPT
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