Where to notch a bridge, & relative effects ????? ( Advice sought )

[David Love]

You've already received a number of responses to this but just to add my two
cents (maybe even a nickel).  After checking to be sure the bearing will be
fine (of course), I first sand the top flat to the bottom of the existing
string grooves.  Then I renotch the bridge to the center of the bridge pin
line (or slightly behind but not in front).  You can check this more easily
by shining a light across the bridge top which will make the notch line more
visible.  Then I coat the top of the bridge with clear coat epoxy (thin).  I
also brush the notches and swab a bit in the holes with a toothpick (don't
fill them up, just swab the inside of the hole lighlty.  Then I wipe the
excess off the notches.  After it cures I sand back the bridge top again
with fine paper (320 and then 400) trying not to sand completely through the
epoxy.  Then I redrill the bridge pin holes with the appropriate size drill.
I use #7 pins in the capo section, #8s in the rest of the tenor, #9 is for
the bass bichords, and #10s for the monochords.  I don't use #6s.  If you
don't epoxy the cap, you can't redrill without risking some chipping.  After
the redrilling I go through with a chisel again and just make sure that the
notch is clean with no epoxy build up past the line of the notch.  Then a
lightly dip the tip of the pin and drive them in leveling the pins as I go.
With a pipe cleaner and a rag I wipe off all the excess epoxy.  After that
cures I shoot the bridge cap and pins with a couple of light coats of satin
lacquer or semi gloss lacquer.  I don't file the tops of the pins.  Makes
for a solid pin in a hardened bridge cap.       

David Love
davidlovepianos at comcast.net 
www.davidlovepianos.com

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of gordon stelter
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:23 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Where to notch a bridge, & relative effects ????? ( Advice sought )

Dear Everyone,
     I am restoring a  1923 Steinway "M".  I am
thinking about impregnating the bridge tops with
either very thin CA ( because it permeates best ) or
"Epotek 301", because it is also very thin. Then I
want to "neaten up the notching". Reblitz says to
notch at halfway across the pin line, but I notice
that most of the notches here ( particularly in the
high treble ) are near the back of the pin line. To
confuse matters, I just tuned a  Baldwin SF 10, and
the notches were near the FRONT of the pin line! 
( What's a neurotic-compulsive perfectionist to do ? )
     As regards the CA idea: CA glue, when cured,and
especially when soakred into wood,  is murderously
hard ( try sanding it ) !!!  I suspect it would be the
best choice to impregnate the wood of the cap, to
resist compression, AND to transmit vibrations. It is
not, though, the best to cling to the pin. What I am
considering: paint clean, sanded tops & notches with
ultra-thin CA, let soak in and dry. To keep it from
filling up the bridge pun holes, I'll find something
of the cxorrect diameter to "plunge" them with, before
the stuff cures ( not that fast, really, when used in
quantity ). Then I'll ream the holes with drill bits
to proper diameter for new bridge pins 
( what brand/ supplier should I use ? ) fine-sand
everything again, nice and clean, DAG the top, and Put
in the new bridge pins with epoxy.
     I woulkd really appreciate everyones' comments on
this proposal, and any other pertinent advice you care
to dispense.
    Spare me not!!!!
     Thump 


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