Where to notch a bridge, & relative effects ????? ( Advice sought )

[gordon stelter]

Thanks for the solid, concise advice, Dave! I've
always been especially distressed by the practice of
pin filing, which will obviously loosen them.
     Thanks!
     G

--- David Love <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> wrote:

> You've already received a number of responses to
> this but just to add my two
> cents (maybe even a nickel).  After checking to be
> sure the bearing will be
> fine (of course), I first sand the top flat to the
> bottom of the existing
> string grooves.  Then I renotch the bridge to the
> center of the bridge pin
> line (or slightly behind but not in front).  You can
> check this more easily
> by shining a light across the bridge top which will
> make the notch line more
> visible.  Then I coat the top of the bridge with
> clear coat epoxy (thin).  I
> also brush the notches and swab a bit in the holes
> with a toothpick (don't
> fill them up, just swab the inside of the hole
> lighlty.  Then I wipe the
> excess off the notches.  After it cures I sand back
> the bridge top again
> with fine paper (320 and then 400) trying not to
> sand completely through the
> epoxy.  Then I redrill the bridge pin holes with the
> appropriate size drill.
> I use #7 pins in the capo section, #8s in the rest
> of the tenor, #9 is for
> the bass bichords, and #10s for the monochords.  I
> don't use #6s.  If you
> don't epoxy the cap, you can't redrill without
> risking some chipping.  After
> the redrilling I go through with a chisel again and
> just make sure that the
> notch is clean with no epoxy build up past the line
> of the notch.  Then a
> lightly dip the tip of the pin and drive them in
> leveling the pins as I go.
> With a pipe cleaner and a rag I wipe off all the
> excess epoxy.  After that
> cures I shoot the bridge cap and pins with a couple
> of light coats of satin
> lacquer or semi gloss lacquer.  I don't file the
> tops of the pins.  Makes
> for a solid pin in a hardened bridge cap.       
> 
> David Love
> davidlovepianos at comcast.net 
> www.davidlovepianos.com
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org
> [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> Of gordon stelter
> Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:23 AM
> To: Pianotech List
> Subject: Where to notch a bridge, & relative effects
> ????? ( Advice sought )
> 
> Dear Everyone,
>      I am restoring a  1923 Steinway "M".  I am
> thinking about impregnating the bridge tops with
> either very thin CA ( because it permeates best ) or
> "Epotek 301", because it is also very thin. Then I
> want to "neaten up the notching". Reblitz says to
> notch at halfway across the pin line, but I notice
> that most of the notches here ( particularly in the
> high treble ) are near the back of the pin line. To
> confuse matters, I just tuned a  Baldwin SF 10, and
> the notches were near the FRONT of the pin line! 
> ( What's a neurotic-compulsive perfectionist to do ?
> )
>      As regards the CA idea: CA glue, when cured,and
> especially when soakred into wood,  is murderously
> hard ( try sanding it ) !!!  I suspect it would be
> the
> best choice to impregnate the wood of the cap, to
> resist compression, AND to transmit vibrations. It
> is
> not, though, the best to cling to the pin. What I am
> considering: paint clean, sanded tops & notches with
> ultra-thin CA, let soak in and dry. To keep it from
> filling up the bridge pun holes, I'll find something
> of the cxorrect diameter to "plunge" them with,
> before
> the stuff cures ( not that fast, really, when used
> in
> quantity ). Then I'll ream the holes with drill bits
> to proper diameter for new bridge pins 
> ( what brand/ supplier should I use ? ) fine-sand
> everything again, nice and clean, DAG the top, and
> Put
> in the new bridge pins with epoxy.
>      I woulkd really appreciate everyones' comments
> on
> this proposal, and any other pertinent advice you
> care
> to dispense.
>     Spare me not!!!!
>      Thump 
> 
> 
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