Where to notch a bridge & relative effects ????? ( Advice sought )

[Avery]

I'm just wondering why David's comment "I don't file the
tops of the pins.  Makes for a solid pin in a hardened bridge cap"
necessarily translates into "which will obviously loosen them!"?

I don't "think" David said that. But of course I've been wrong before. :-)
But in spite of Gordon's comment, I'm curious about why you don't, David.

Avery

At 11:52 AM 9/8/2006, you wrote:
>Thanks for the solid, concise advice, Dave! I've
>always been especially distressed by the practice of
>pin filing, which will obviously loosen them.
>      Thanks!
>      G
>
>--- David Love <davidlovepianos at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > You've already received a number of responses to
> > this but just to add my two
> > cents (maybe even a nickel).  After checking to be
> > sure the bearing will be
> > fine (of course), I first sand the top flat to the
> > bottom of the existing
> > string grooves.  Then I renotch the bridge to the
> > center of the bridge pin
> > line (or slightly behind but not in front).  You can
> > check this more easily
> > by shining a light across the bridge top which will
> > make the notch line more
> > visible.  Then I coat the top of the bridge with
> > clear coat epoxy (thin).  I
> > also brush the notches and swab a bit in the holes
> > with a toothpick (don't
> > fill them up, just swab the inside of the hole
> > lighlty.  Then I wipe the
> > excess off the notches.  After it cures I sand back
> > the bridge top again
> > with fine paper (320 and then 400) trying not to
> > sand completely through the
> > epoxy.  Then I redrill the bridge pin holes with the
> > appropriate size drill.
> > I use #7 pins in the capo section, #8s in the rest
> > of the tenor, #9 is for
> > the bass bichords, and #10s for the monochords.  I
> > don't use #6s.  If you
> > don't epoxy the cap, you can't redrill without
> > risking some chipping.  After
> > the redrilling I go through with a chisel again and
> > just make sure that the
> > notch is clean with no epoxy build up past the line
> > of the notch.  Then a
> > lightly dip the tip of the pin and drive them in
> > leveling the pins as I go.
> > With a pipe cleaner and a rag I wipe off all the
> > excess epoxy.  After that
> > cures I shoot the bridge cap and pins with a couple
> > of light coats of satin
> > lacquer or semi gloss lacquer.  I don't file the
> > tops of the pins.  Makes
> > for a solid pin in a hardened bridge cap.
> >
> > David Love
> > davidlovepianos at comcast.net
> > www.davidlovepianos.com
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org
> > [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> > Of gordon stelter
> > Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:23 AM
> > To: Pianotech List
> > Subject: Where to notch a bridge, & relative effects
> > ????? ( Advice sought )
> >
> > Dear Everyone,
> >      I am restoring a  1923 Steinway "M".  I am
> > thinking about impregnating the bridge tops with
> > either very thin CA ( because it permeates best ) or
> > "Epotek 301", because it is also very thin. Then I
> > want to "neaten up the notching". Reblitz says to
> > notch at halfway across the pin line, but I notice
> > that most of the notches here ( particularly in the
> > high treble ) are near the back of the pin line. To
> > confuse matters, I just tuned a  Baldwin SF 10, and
> > the notches were near the FRONT of the pin line!
> > ( What's a neurotic-compulsive perfectionist to do ?
> > )
> >      As regards the CA idea: CA glue, when cured,and
> > especially when soakred into wood,  is murderously
> > hard ( try sanding it ) !!!  I suspect it would be
> > the
> > best choice to impregnate the wood of the cap, to
> > resist compression, AND to transmit vibrations. It
> > is
> > not, though, the best to cling to the pin. What I am
> > considering: paint clean, sanded tops & notches with
> > ultra-thin CA, let soak in and dry. To keep it from
> > filling up the bridge pun holes, I'll find something
> > of the cxorrect diameter to "plunge" them with,
> > before
> > the stuff cures ( not that fast, really, when used
> > in
> > quantity ). Then I'll ream the holes with drill bits
> > to proper diameter for new bridge pins
> > ( what brand/ supplier should I use ? ) fine-sand
> > everything again, nice and clean, DAG the top, and
> > Put
> > in the new bridge pins with epoxy.
> >      I woulkd really appreciate everyones' comments
> > on
> > this proposal, and any other pertinent advice you
> > care
> > to dispense.
> >     Spare me not!!!!
> >      Thump
> >
> >
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