Pianotek is now selling a product called Abatron WoodEpox that was demonstrated in Rochester. It can be kneaded and pressed into the tape-backed holes with a putty knife in such a way as to minimize or eliminate any post-cure sanding. Very slick. - Mark Dierauf -----Original Message----- From: David Ilvedson [mailto:ilvey at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 11:37 AM To: ed440 at mindspring.com; pianotech at ptg.org Subject: Re: key lead hole filler Now that's what I'm talking about....thanks Ed... Who do you get your supplies through...? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 _____ Original message From: ed440 at mindspring.com To: "Pianotech List" Received: 9/23/2006 4:56:05 AM Subject: Re: key lead hole filler Sculpwood Epoxy Putty from System Three is a two part lightweight filled epoxy dough.It sands, drills and cuts nicely. Also takes black dye in the accidentals. Use SBS 46 skin cream (buy from epoxy supplier) and you can roll and stuff the epoxy into the holes with your hands. Masking tape stretched over one side works well, does not stick to the epoxy and you don't need to clamp a piece of wood, just support with your finger or a piece of wood while you push the putty in from the other side and smooth the open side with a small putty knife. It took about an hour to fill an entire key set last week. Ed Sutton -----Original Message----- From: Farrell Sent: Sep 23, 2006 5:58 AM To: Pianotech List Subject: Re: key lead hole filler Yup, pretty much exactly. I've taken a scrap of flat wood, and clamp it to a keystick with spring clamps. I place a piece of plastic between the key and wood so the scrap doesn't get bonded to the key. Then simply fill the hole from the other side and level with a stick of some sort for a sanding-free hole-filling job. Done with care, no sanding is necessary. However, overfilling slightly and sanding flat makes for a more visually attractive repair IMHO, but it's more work, and who the heck is going to see it? I figure if you are trying to make it look pretty, then just cut some spruce plugs and go that route - nothing looks better than a chisel-cut flush spruce plug. One other thought. Sometimes you will get a tiny bit of squeeze-through on the plastic/wood-scrap side of the keystick (if the scrap wasn't clamped perfectly to the keystick. I've thought that next time I do this task that I would tape over the one side of the keystick with wide masking tape and then clamp a scrap of wood to that side - just thinking that the masking tape sticking to the keystick would better prevent any epoxy from oozing out around the perimeter of the hole on that side - again, mostly a visual thing. Will the epoxy bond to the sticky masking tape? I guess a little experimentation is in order first! Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- I've got a Sty D with a lot of holes in the keys (before my time) I'd like to repair this as efficiently as possible. So, Terry, could write what your careful application might be? I would imagine: one side of the key has scrap wood and tape? other side levels out nicely...????? David Ilvedson, RPT Pacifica, CA 94044 _____ Original message I've done it both ways and whereas I sure do like the look of spruce plugs, epoxy is about a gazillion time faster. I use West System epoxy resin and hardener and thicken it with their 410 MicrolightTM low-density filler. It cures to a tan color. This is a fairing filler and is extremely easy to sand - although careful application makes for almost no sanding needed. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- > Just wondering. Why don't you must put a wood plug in the holes? > > Avery > > At 02:36 PM 9/22/2006, you wrote: > >>List, >> >>I read about the Abatron putty but was wondering whether anyone in >>the trades sells something ready to go with color? >> >>David Ilvedson, RPT -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/20060923/70fdb525/attachment.html
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