A properly rated respirator is safest. Small pets should be removed from the area. The "odorless" stuff is safer if no-one is going to be low enough to breath it. Cross ventilation can bring a stream of fresh air into your work area and carry the fume outside, preferably. At 08:39 PM 4/4/2007, you wrote: >Don - >Very thorough explanation. Thanks. It sounds like ventilation >problem is unavoidable. What would you do, or recommend? Also, if >the cracks in the bridge are indeed as small as Rex implies, would >the water-thin glue act as gap fill with multiple applications? That >is, would it achieve the same hardness, once cured? > >Regards > >David Skolnik >Hastings on Hudson, NY > > > > > >At 01:07 PM 4/4/2007, you wrote: >>Hi Rex, >> >>Yes odorless CA exists. I don't use it so I can't offer a source of supply. >> >>All houses are recommended to have at least .35 air changes per hour--so a >>build up of fumes is not likely. >> >>"The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning >>Engineering (ASHRAE exiting epa recommends (in its Standard 62-1999, >>"Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality") that homes receive .35 air >>changes per hour, but not less than 15 cubic feet per minute (cfm) per >>person. A common rule of thumb is the 15 cfm multiplied by number of >>bedrooms in the house plus one. For example, a 3 bedroom house would >>require at least 60 cfm of outdoor air. [(3 bedrooms + 1) x 15 cfm = 60 >>cfm]. Kitchens should have an intermittent exhaust capacity of 100 cfm; >>bathrooms an intermittent capacity of 50 cfm. (ASHRAE also notes that >>"dwellings with tight enclosures may require supplemental ventilation >>supply for fuel-burning appliances, including fireplaces and mechanically >>exhausted appliances. See information on combustion appliances.)" >> >>http://www.epa.gov/iaq/homes/hip-ventilation.html >> >>For bridge cracks it may be best to treat the wood with the water thin >>variety first to seal it--then follow up with medium or even thick. Be >>prepared to make more than one application. >> >>At 09:46 AM 4/4/2007 -0400, you wrote: >> > Dear List I have two questions regarding CA glue. 1. I seem >> >to remember odorless CA glue being talked about on the list, but I was not >> >able to find a reference to a source. Does anyone know if it actually >> >exists and where it can be purchased? I have a piano that needs a >> >treatment on the tuning pins, but is in one of the new houses in this area >> >that are sealed for energy conservation. Would the regular CA fumes cause a >> >problem in a house where it may not be possible to get much outside >> >ventilation? 2. When using CA glue on the bridge, is it necessary to >> >remove the strings before applications? Does the CA have enough gap filling >> >property to fill small cracks and gaps, or does it just solidify the area >> >around the pin? Thanks Rex Roseman >>Regards, >>Don Rose, B.Mus., A.M.U.S., A.MUS., R.P.T. >>Non calor sed umor est qui nobis incommodat >> >>mailto:pianotuna at yahoo.com http://us.geocities.com/drpt1948/ >> >>3004 Grant Rd. REGINA, SK, S4S 5G7 >>306-539-0716 or 1-888-29t-uner >
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