making an upright pinblock

[Bob Hull]

Terry, Ron and other readers,

I am going to try the delignit capping soon, but maybe
not on this upright.

Another idea came me about making up the thickness for
the back of the block:  What about using part of the
old block back? I am going to remove it by drilling
out just in front of the glue joint and then
chiseling, planing, steaming out the remainder.  I
could plane down the old one and band saw it to an
approx. thickness then run it through the thickness
planer.  I wonder if it would be too hard for my
bandsaw (Delta 14") or if the aged wood would be too
different from the newer block material that I would
add to it?  Would you use epoxy or titebond?

Bob Hull
 
--- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> Bob, the easiest way to make up the thickness IMHO,
> would be to simply add sufficient thickness maple
> (or any reasonable hardwood) to the backside of a
> 1-1/2" thick multilam block. However, some
> rebuilders, including me, have of late been topping
> our pinblocks with a layer of Delignit. The block
> pictured below is a multilam with about a 1/4"
> lamination of Delignit on top (plus a veneer of
> decorative hardwood - open-faced pinblock on this
> one). You could extend the Delignit and back harwood
> the full 59-1/2" and then fill in the 1/2" gap with
> a hunk of harwood epoxied in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or if you have more time that money, make your own
> block from scratch - it's not rocket science! Below
> is a block I made from quarter-sawn hard maple (much
> the same approach as the Bolduc block) and then
> capped with Delignit - I think the cap on this one
> is almost 1/2" thick (I think 1/4" is sufficient).
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have no use for the left over block material?
> If you don't want the left over material, and
> perhaps don't have the tooling for cutting the
> Delignit, etc. I would be happy to talk to you about
> making one up for you - I can make it the full
> 59-1/2", any thickness, cap or not, whatever you
> want.
> 
> Terry Farrell
> Farrell Piano
> 
> www.farrellpiano.com
> terry at farrellpiano.com
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----  
> > Bolduc has an upright pinblock for 310.00
> > (Pianotek)but I'm thinking of making one to save
> some
> > $.  The block will need to be 2 1/4" by 9 1/4" by
> 59
> > 1/2".  I can get a multilam flat-sawn double panel
> > block from PianoTek for 151.00.  That block will
> be 1
> > 3/8 by 17" by 59".  Not wide enough to cut the 17"
> > into two blocks to be glued together.  But, I
> could
> > buy a single panel 1 3/8" or whatever thickness
> > delignit for 101.00 and glue them together at the
> > approp. thickness.  
> > 
> > Or, I could get a piece of 8/4 or 6/4 hard maple
> and
> > glue it to the back of the multilam.  Still about
> $90
> > - 100.00 for a kiln dried board.   
> > I  would have between 7 and  8" width left of the
> > multilam double  panel - not enough for another
> block
> > upright or grand.
> > Any of these blocks I buy will be 1/2" short of
> the 59
> > 1/2 but I can take care of that.
> > 
> > Any better ideas?  
> > 
> > Bob Hull



 
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